Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
FA: | B. Smoot and H. Armantrout, 1983 |
Page Views: | 2,205 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Texaswall Seale on Jul 30, 2008 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
The most obvious feature on this route is the second pitch's flake that in the span of but a few meters throws three devilishly difficult and different cruxes at you, all of which require a committed leader: crank off a finger lock to a high foot and undercling, layback a rounded edge with a barn-dooring feel and crumbling rock for a left foot, and then suck in your gut and rack to burrow behind the top lobe of the flake and decode a sequence to mount it.
P1) Scramble up an easy ramp to find a corner and left facing flake. Establish a gear belay (dual pitons in Ruckman guide were not to be found) on a ledge left of above-mentioned flake / 5.8 (90ft).
P2) The flake followed by a gritty slab with a rusty button-head and hanger and a just out of reach chickenhead to challenge you. Gear belay under roof in horizontal crack (finger-sized cams) 5.10 (75ft) 1983!
P3) You've got to get down and while the Ruckman guide seems to suggest traversing straight right along unprotectable slab, try following the horizontal under the roof, stepping across a small gully with the assistance of a chickenhead, and aiming for a rappel station that now sports a cordelette and 'biner. Protect the second and don't pull out on the rappel "pillar"! 5.8 (60ft)
P1) Scramble up an easy ramp to find a corner and left facing flake. Establish a gear belay (dual pitons in Ruckman guide were not to be found) on a ledge left of above-mentioned flake / 5.8 (90ft).
P2) The flake followed by a gritty slab with a rusty button-head and hanger and a just out of reach chickenhead to challenge you. Gear belay under roof in horizontal crack (finger-sized cams) 5.10 (75ft) 1983!
P3) You've got to get down and while the Ruckman guide seems to suggest traversing straight right along unprotectable slab, try following the horizontal under the roof, stepping across a small gully with the assistance of a chickenhead, and aiming for a rappel station that now sports a cordelette and 'biner. Protect the second and don't pull out on the rappel "pillar"! 5.8 (60ft)
Location
The route has a topo in the Ruckman guide and is found in the Green A gully just above This is Almost the Place. I happened to have the benefit of double ropes (70m) to get down in one rap, and didn't take the time to adequately scope the availability of a second station. However, I think it would present itself in the form of a tree(s), though I would still recommend a 70m here.
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