Creep or Crawl
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | KD and DH |
Page Views: | 735 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Ken Duncan on Jun 15, 2016 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This route no longer exists due to massive rockfall!
This ascends the wide chimney that climbs better than it looks.
P1. 5.8. Face climb to a small tree right of the chimney, sling it, then head up and left into the chimney. Continue up the chimney to a hand rail out right, then go up plates to the anchors shared with Simple Pleasures.
Location
This is the obvious chimney in the notch at the top of Main Crag.
Approaches include:
1) Climb Levitation or one of the other central slab routes, then scramble up to the base of the route.
2) Walk left around the west end of Main Crag. Head up to the base of the cliff then follow cairns angling up and right in a trough. Scramble up behind Totem Tower and up to the base of the route.
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