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e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting)
Routes Sorted
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Birdie Party T 
Co-op T 
Coexistence T 
Credibility Gap T 
Dangler, The T 
Dry Martini T 
Fall to Grace T 
Fly Again T 
Graveyard Shift T 
Higher Stannard T 
Interstice T 
Jane Fonda Workout for Pregnant Women, The TR 
Land Ho! T 
Land's End (Direct) T 
Laughing Man T 
Men At Arms T 
MF T 
Mother's Day Party T 
Overhanging Layback T 
Redirectional Idealism T 
Scene of the Climb T 
Something Boring T 
Something Interesting T 
Star Action T 
Still Crazy After All These Years T 
Tequila Mockingbird T 
Three Pines T 
Tough Existence T 
Tough Shift T 
Try Again T 
Welcome to the Gunks T 

Credibility Gap 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, Joe Kelsey, Dick Williams 1968
Page Views: 5,635
Submitted By: adrenalated on Apr 23, 2007

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Gail protecting the exciting exit from under the r...

Description 

Credibility Gap is a fun 5.6 just the the left of Asphodel's huge right-facing corner. The route begins right at the base of the corner.

Pitch 1 is a good introduction to 5.6 for a solid 5.5 leader. The crux moves are exciting and exposed, but the holds are all big, and the moves well protected. The route is better than it looks from the ground.

P1: Climb the crack in the slick but slabby left face of the corner. From the top, diagonal up and left on easy rock to an obvious, low-angle right facing corner. You can belay here, but I found no need to. Climb the corner to the roof, then make an airy exit left onto the face. Go straight up the steep face to the ledge with a couple pine trees (this is also the belay for Welcome to the Gunks. 5.6 G/PG, ~90 feet.

P2: Straight up to the largest overhang about 30 feet up, step left and climb up the face to a small flaky left-facing corner, step back right and go up to a pine tree on the GT ledge. 5.5 PG, 60 feet.

Descent: From the GT ledge, rappel to the double-bolt anchor on Welcome to the Gunks.

Location 

About an 8-min walk down the carriage road from the Uberfall; after the Mac Wall, but before Beginner's Delight. The trail for Welcome to the Gunks provides the quickest access.

Protection 

The Williams guide gives P1 a PG rating; however, I felt the pitch was G. The crux protects well with a larger cam (3.5 Friend). There are some short runouts, but only on very easy rock. Other than the large cam, a standard Gunks rack is fine.


Photos of Credibility Gap Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Following pitch 1 on Credibility Gap as photograph...
Following pitch 1 on Credibility Gap as photograph...
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Credibility Gap is the crack on the w...
BETA PHOTO: The start of Credibility Gap is the crack on the w...
Rock Climbing Photo: Just before the crux move. I got three cams - a go...
BETA PHOTO: Just before the crux move. I got three cams - a go...
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Credibility Gap. I got off route by c...
The start of Credibility Gap. I got off route by c...
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy Bennett on the beginning of Credibility Gap -...
Andy Bennett on the beginning of Credibility Gap -...

Comments on Credibility Gap Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 26, 2016
By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Oct 28, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

P1 is the worth doing, don't remember P2 much other than some dirty rocks. My follower backed off twice on the P1's airy exit. Definitely interesting, bring a big cam. I don't remember which one I used, maybe BD #4?
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jul 28, 2009

P1 is great. It looks very improbable from the ground, but, the holds reveal themselves as you ascend. It's a great, exciting climb with a great move under the roof.

P2 is fun, nice and mellow.
By J Antin
From: Golden, CO
Nov 3, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

BETA:>>> A semi-tricky #3 C4 protects the 'airy-exit' move well!

Fun climb!
By doligo
Aug 9, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Asphodel, the climb right next to it, is way better IMO. While I had a #3 with me to protect the exit, you can also place a smaller cam closer to the nose of the traverse.

Rappel: 2 60M will get you all the way to the ground, just make sure to throw ropes skier's right (or they will get tangled in the pine tree on P1 belay).
By Tyrel Fuller
From: Denver, CO
Nov 28, 2011

A 70m rope can place you on the ground in one rappel from pitch 1
By Galen Rahmlow
From: Woodbury, MN
Apr 30, 2012

The exit move is one of my favorite moves in all of the gunks right now. It was awesome! Just got to remember it's only 5.6!
By Kurtz
May 20, 2013

Loved the big P1 move. Great holds so just go for it. Two 60m ropes got us down from the top, but it was really hard to pull the ropes. Not sure where all the drag came from.
By kenr
Jun 3, 2014

There is a very secure cam placement out near the edge of the crux roof on P1 -- but consider that removing that piece might be rather strenuous and intimidating for your follower -- and they might then lose their appetite for actually for actually performing the crux moves.
So I'd recommend taking some thought about which piece and how to place it -- and some explicit communication with follower about how they should remove it.
By Mthoresz
Jul 21, 2014

Awesome first pitch! Exciting exit, but everything is right there once you commit with your hands above you. I agree with Kenr about the cam just before the crux move. As a shorter climber who was following, I felt exposed getting that cam out, but once I did, the exit was perfect.

P2 was pretty dirty, which made for more excitement than we were looking for.
By Dan Africk
From: Brooklyn, New York
Aug 11, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The exposure of the roof move is incredible, it makes High-E look like bunny. Looking out from under the roof (or even from the ground), you have no clue what's around the corner, and I could not fathom how it would be a 5.6 - but you have to just trust that it is. It's not bad at all once you commit to the move.

The real crux for me was the beginning, and I think that makes this route extremely sandbagged- it's basically a crack climb (reminiscent of Ken's Crack), but with a few small slabby holds and sidepulls spread around, often no good feet. The crack will take decent gear, but those placements also occupy key handholds, and you don't have a good stance to place it. I didn't do this section clean, so I'm not sure about the rating, but I'll call it about 5.7 to 5.7+.

[Descent]: Our 70 meter rope reached the ground easily, even without rope stretch, but there wasn't much margin of error.
By Dan Africk
From: Brooklyn, New York
Aug 11, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

>: I used more gear on this route than I've ever used on a single pitch. You'll need to put double-length runners on pretty much everything until you pass the corner, and then also for the roof. Because I used long runners, and the dicey beginning, I placed more pro early on, but not excessively. Even then, it was runout with ground fall potential after the crack, though this section is easy.

I carry more gear than most, and still wished I had more. I can't imagine leading this without some doubles. I took a photo of the gear I placed, I used all that plus about 4 borrowed slings. I really could have used a third .75, and probably a .5 and another #1 as well.

Agreed that a #3 c4 can protect the crux, though it's set far back under the roof, and it is tricky- it's tight getting it in there, but can still tip out if you don't place it carefully. I like the small placement near the edge of the crux better- Yes it's a pain to both place and clean, but made me feel a lot better about making that move. It was marginal with a .5 x4, but I think a .75 would have been solid- definitely save one.


Rock Climbing Photo: Gear I placed on P1 of Credibility Gap. I used all...
Gear I placed on P1 of Credibility Gap. I used all this, plus another 4 slings. I really could have used another .75 cam, and probably another #1 and .5.
By Mrkb3
Sep 8, 2015

Don't hesitate to get on this one. Fun finger crack to start takes really good gear.
The variety of climbing makes this better than High E P2 for me.
By Joel Ryan
From: New York, New York
Jul 27, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Don't let Dan scare you, this route can be safely led on a regular rack, and while its exposed, think of it as high E's underrated little brother. If you are concerned about running out of gear or encountering too much rope drag, just break the pitch up with a belay right before the crux. It's nice and cozy, takes some nuts and a #3. Your partner gets the added bonus of watching you disappear around the corner.

At the start, keep out of the corner and stay in the crack for the full experience! If you know how to lock, it's typical gunks 5.6.
By adrenalated
From: Denver, CO
Aug 9, 2016

Yeah, I gotta disagree with Dan as well. I used a standard rack and was totally fine with gear to spare, and that was before I was a strong trad climber. Use the optional belay if you're worried about running out or pro or runners.

And no way is this 5.7+. Sure, it might be 5.7+ at other areas, but that's the Gunks for ya. Something Interesting is 5.7+, this is much easier.
By Joel Ryan
From: New York, New York
Oct 26, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Manky rappel station at tree replaced with redundant 8mm cord, 70m rope required to rap in one go.

It's much easier to traverse left immediately after pulling through the 'move' to the bolted rappel station. This avoids the loose rock higher on the pitch and will allow you to get to the ground with a 60m.