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Creature Feature 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: K. & E Pogue, 1991. P2 added 1992 by C. Keller, S Faulkner, T. Schlachter.
Page Views: 10,958
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (401)
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Awesome jugs to pull you out of the roof and onto ...


A "hero" climb with one cool steep move and a lot of huge holds.
Get up to the ledge at the base of the route, just below the big roof and clip a bolt. Lean out over the roof to some big holds and ape your way onto those. You can practically campus the route from there, but heel-hooks look cooler. Clip a bolt above the roof and pull up to stand on the less-than-vertical face. Continue up on plates and puzzle pieces to a set of anchors and lower off. Or continue on plates and edges to the top of the rock with nuts and slings for gear.


Approach Phantasia Wall from the road via the main trail (right) and go slightly left at the split to the obvious low roof with bolts and a heavily plated, low-angle face above. This is Creature Feature.


A handful of draws plus some slings and nuts to finish the climb if so desired. It is generally still done just to the anchors (20 meters) as a single sport pitch.

Photos of Creature Feature Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Easy run to the anchors on Creature Feature
Easy run to the anchors on Creature Feature
Rock Climbing Photo: Amanda hanging on the roof jugs
Amanda hanging on the roof jugs
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling "the move"
Pulling "the move"
Rock Climbing Photo: Throwing down a heel hook on Creature Feature
Throwing down a heel hook on Creature Feature
Rock Climbing Photo: Pat finishing up on "Creature Feature".
Pat finishing up on "Creature Feature".
Rock Climbing Photo: 5 star classic
5 star classic
Rock Climbing Photo: Creature Feature roof
Creature Feature roof
Rock Climbing Photo: The Start of Creature Feature
The Start of Creature Feature
Rock Climbing Photo: Jakob pulling the roof... the last tough move on t...
Jakob pulling the roof... the last tough move on t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jakob on Creature Feature... climbing the awsome j...
Jakob on Creature Feature... climbing the awsome j...

Comments on Creature Feature Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 7, 2017
By Bad Sock Puppet
Jul 25, 2008

Fun climb. The crux is at the beginning on the slab. If you're going to fall it'll most likely be here. Clip under roof then reach up over lip to great juggy plates. Pop over lip then continue on juggy holds all the way to the top. This route seems to stay wet a lot so don't go if it's rained within the past few days. In colder weather, do it in the morning, as the sun will shine on it then.
By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
May 16, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Loads of fun, reminded me of High Exposure at the Gunks. Really, the hardest section of this climb is the start. The roof move is only difficult if you're short, and even then it's doable.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Oct 5, 2010

I cant wait to do this climb it looks so fun. Cant wait for another trip here in December!
From: Chicago/Colorado
Jan 9, 2012

Has anyone short done this. I thought it was reachy and i am 5'11".
Fun route. I swear there is dino tracks in the upper section.
By James Pence
Mar 4, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

I am 5'7". The roof is hard but doable. Creature Feature is my favorite climb so far but I am new to the sport. Anyone know of more good spots for a beginner in the Gorge? The very beginning was harder than getting past the roof.
By S. Neoh
Mar 4, 2012

Muir Valley has a high concentration of routes good for the aspiring leader.
By Kyle Hartung
Jul 29, 2013

I climbed this route a few days ago and noticed that one of the anchor rings (right I believe) is starting to wear through at one point, maybe 1/3 of the way and needs to be replaced. I did not have the gear to do it.
By Zach Kling
From: Indianapolis, Indiana
May 22, 2014

If you're short, you can do this. My wife is 5'2" on a tall day and did it easily. Have fun!
By manleyk Manley
From: Broomfield, CO
Jun 2, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I found Creature Feature a bit harder than Pogue Ethics, so I'm calling it a 10a. Fun route! There was a salamander on the first feature (so, aptly named).
By Stephenmontgomery
From: Maryland
Nov 1, 2015
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Loved it! Bouldery start to cool roof pull, followed by sweet jug hauling. I will say that I thought the first 3 bolts was a little harder than 5.9 maybe 9+ or a easy 10a. However the rest of climb is 5.6/7. Regardless of grade it's super fun!
By Mason Roberts
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 10, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a one move wonder. The beginning up to the roof is much harder if damp (duh, right - but more so than most), and I would recommend stick clipping the first bolt as the landing isn't ideal. If you can campus at all, you'll find the crux at the roof easy - if not, then you'll find this outside the 5.9 range. I'm guessing that's why there are some 5.10 ratings on here, even though this route is not as technical or sustained as Pouge Ethics.
By Kristi Cookie
Jul 20, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I am 5'3 and cannot campus... The roof is straight forward and does not feel like a 5.10. You are on huge buckets! Throw a heel and get over it(the roof). I stayed a bit more to the right so i had a left heel, and actually skipped the the first bolt after the roof and got the next one. I would have considered this route a one move wonder, but getting up to the first bolt can be tricky. Have fun!
By pooch
May 7, 2017

2nd pitch is non-existent, don't waste time or energy hauling gear up there. Crack is shallow & packed with mud and there's nothing to sling.

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