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YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b PG13

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 225'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b PG13 [details]
FA: surette/ burke '85
Page Views: 601
Submitted By: john strand on Mar 16, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Here's one that doesn't get done. The crux is classic Cathedral steep facey/slab with some fixed junk for gear. Excellent situation. Pitch one if pretty serious 10+ RR. Basically the route would be really good with a fix-up. Originally started by Mr Dunn but not finished.
With demise of the original Camber tree, the direct finish on this one would be the way to go. I have tr'd this but not bolted it (1-2 bolts).


Left of Reach the Sky. OR P1 Start just right of Camber. Go up and right to a spooky mantle on to sloping belay ledge. P2 up on small slopies and some crisp edges -tough and sustained to the summit "handcrack" anchor. You also could rap and just do P2.


Lot's of fixed junk, bolts, bashies etc. A couple of cams for P1.

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By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Mar 16, 2010

John, was this an aid route at one time? Or were the heads just used for pro (scary).
By john strand
From: southern colo
Mar 16, 2010

Not to my knowledge. it was combo rap bolted/lead bolted aided. If fixed up, it would be brilliant.
By bayard russell jr
From: Madison, NH
Apr 29, 2010

Webster's gudebook describes heading out left to the Camber tree, which, as John points out, ain't there. There is an independent top out on some bolts, 10-ish, but the whole thing together is pretty spooky. The scariest part is after the crux , doing a mantle 20-25' out. A flake that used to take gear ripped off when I fell seconding the crux, some cams blew it out and sent it right at my head - it was a directional as the leader had taken a right and belayed on Reach of the Sky. I dodged the bullet. Anyway, that flake was the only gear for a ways and that bolted top out was apparently Bouchard's. Sounds like he may have never gotten around to doing it. I've been up through there, but not without fallng at the 5.12 crux. So its there for somebody.. Roll your nuts in in a wheel barrow for this one.

I don't remember any bashies.
By john strand
From: southern colo
May 10, 2010

It is a pretty spooky route in parts. maybe the bashies fell out.

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