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Creation of the World 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ken Nichols, Chad Hussey?
Season: spring-fall
Page Views: 3,807
Submitted By: joe frankel on Oct 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Squeeze flare/ chimney in the first pitch.

Description 

Start just below and left of the steepest part of head wall. A bolt protects the initial slab moves (10' off ground). Work up slab and corner to chimney/flare, climb flare and traverse left to the crack. Decent belay in small left-facing corner. Up the offwidth for 2 pitches. Can belay in wonderful cave before the last bit of offwidth breaks a short roof section. At end of offwidth exit on easier cracks and corners.

No getting off route on this one; pretty obvious and beautiful natural line.

Protection 

bring big stuff, big green camalot or #6 friend suggested


Photos of Creation of the World Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Creation of the World, pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Creation of the World, pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: cody 1st pitch
cody 1st pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: route
route
Rock Climbing Photo: tom on tyrolean
tom on tyrolean
Rock Climbing Photo: rest on the tree
rest on the tree
Rock Climbing Photo: route, w/ cedar tree
route, w/ cedar tree
Rock Climbing Photo: Cody Simms on last pitch
Cody Simms on last pitch

Comments on Creation of the World Add Comment
Show which comments
By jamie Hamilton
From: santa fe nm
Sep 11, 2009

One of the most beautiful routes I've done in the daks. Funny to see a bolt on a Ken Nichols climb, kinda makes you wonder?
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Oct 12, 2009

If you're looking for a little more information, check out Jim Lawyer's description of Creation of the World:


jimlawyer.com/Adirondacks%5Cwe...
By Jerome St-Michel
From: Montreal, QUÉBEC
Apr 25, 2017

The link to Jim Lawyer is description is here :

jimlawyer.com/Adirondacks/web/...
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Apr 25, 2017

Jerome: In case that link is taken down:

Start: On the overhanging northeast face, find the lone low bolt and begin just to the right.

Pitch 1: Clip the bolt (while standing on the ground) and make difficult face moves leftwards past the bolt to a small overlap. Small TCUs and nuts protect the moves up the shallow left-facing corner and into the "flare". The flare constitutes the crux of the pitch and is easier for small people: awkward moves and good protection in the back of the flare (#2 Camalot, nuts) take one to a small cedar and an adequate belay. 5.11a

Pitch 2: Step down and left from the belay onto rounded, green footholds. Move directly left (red Alien) and into a left-facing corner with fixed nuts. Continue straight left, then step down once again and climb desperately left (5.11 R), finally reaching some good cracks. Climb straight up -- hands, then fists -- to a stance. From here the crack turns offwidth (#5 Camalot); hard offwidth climbing leads to better holds near the giant cedar. Continue up the offwidth crack (another #5 Camalot) until the crack widens and is filled with flakes and blocks. The crack widens into a chimney; climb deeper into the cliff behind the wedged blocks finally emerging onto a giant, flat block the size of dining room table and set a belay. This block is very spooky, as it is many tonnes, yet pivots on a center axis. 5.11a

Pitch 3: Stemming and chimney technique allows one to climb up and out from the belay to where the crack pinches down to offwidth size. A #5 Camalot protects the transition from stemming/chimneying to laybacking. Strenuous laybacking and offwidth climbing (another #5 Camalot) eventually gives way to a hand/fist crack, which is followed to a spacious belay ledge on the arête. 5.11b

Pitch 4: The guidebook indicates that the route traverses right from the belay, climbing corners and cracks to the summit. An alternative pitch (cleaner and a bit harder) is to climb the top pitch of Fear of Flying. For this pitch, walk left on the belay ledge to a large cedar and climb a dirty crack to a ledge with a double-bolt belay. Pass this belay and climb the unlikely face above following cracks. 5.10a

Gear: Standard rack, including small TCUs, nuts, and cams. For large gear, 2 #3 Camalots, 1 3.5 Camalot, 1 #4 Camalot, 1 #4.5 Camalot, 2 #5 Camalots.

Other Information: The video Uncommon Ground (2002, Chance Productions/Robert Frost) has a section showing climbing Creation of the World.

Climbing Magazine featured the Adirondacks in an article by Jeff Achey (Climbing #150, March 1995, page 102). The article begins with a spectacular picture of Jeff Achey leading the handcrack on the second pitch, and describes the "second ascent" of the route. Unfortunately, at best this is the fourth ascent of the route, as Rich Romano had already climbed it...twice.

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