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29 - Cream
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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mark Klemens (Aug '71)
Page Views: 1,420
Submitted By: Bryan G on May 30, 2012

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Megan using the "sucker knob" off to the...

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Cream is a great offwidth pitch that ranks among the Valley's most classic splitters. Imagine Chingando, but 20 degrees steeper. It's also probably among the easiest of the 5.11 wide cracks if you are looking to break into the grade.

This will be the first obvious climb you come to as you traverse the base of the cliff from the "Eastern Square Cleft" approach gully. It is on the steep right-hand face of a large open book. Blocky 5th class climbing leads to a stance at the bottom of the splitter. The crux comes at you pretty quick on a section that is gently overhanging. Higher up you will pass a small roof and the angle lessens. Conserve your gear because the climb is longer than it looks. I found the route fairly secure but burly and sustained the whole way, with almost no climbing easier than 5.9. Also consider bringing extra webbing for the anchor. The bolts are new but the webbing connecting the rap rings could use replacing. There's a chance a 70m rope might get you down, but I'm not sure.


I brought three #4 Camalots, two #5 Camalots, and two #6 Camalots and placed all of it, plus a couple hand sized pieces at the start.

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By Alexey
From: San Jose
Aug 28, 2012

70m rope probably get you down but not to convenient ledge.
It is better to have 80m - and both leader and follower would be at comfortable stance to start.
On lead I armbared at crux with left side in. Than on TR I hand stack crux right side in- and it was way easier.
When right side in - you also can use big knobs to ease transition from 4 to 5 inches.

Used a lot of big gear on this climb 2x from #3 to #6 + 1#4 friend + single set from small tcu to #2. I even use blue alien
By Russ Walling
Aug 29, 2012

Additional info here:
By david s wilson
Sep 30, 2013

Approach beta: park at the start ( eastern side ) of the stone wall after the tunnel and then walk back down the road easterly about 100 feet. Head down bearing slightly east of the fall line until you each a line of metal power poles. With the above description, you should be able to walk to the closest of these poles and from that pole go directly down to the cliff edge to find the passage

Rope: a 60 meter rope will barely by adding a few slings to one end, allow a TR from the upper ledge. 70 meter rope is preferred.

Gear: we had: 2-3, 2-4, 2-5, 2-6 and seemed ok
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Apr 14, 2014

Until memory fresh from yesterday:Left side in all the way from the crux.
Nice to have 3#4 , 3#5 and 2#6 to avoid pushing camalots. Save one #5 for upper part.
By Christina Freschl
From: Berkeley, California
Sep 1, 2014

Approach gully is dirty, but the fixed lines help. If you don't see these, you are in the wrong one.

Beautiful splitter. I agree with Alexey that 3 #5's is ideal. The last part is less steep, but #5s for days.

Knobs are on the left side, so left side in doesn't work if you want to use them. I stayed left side in for the whole thing and it worked well to hand stack and lift leg really high through 4-5 transition crux.

Amazing route!

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