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Cream of Belay 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 175'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: JS, RR, SB, DG, '76
Page Views: 825
Submitted By: Clay Mansfield on Jun 8, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: Cream of Belay from Aegir, picture taken from Char...


Cream of Belay is yet another fine climb on one of Mt Lemmon's most stacked cliffs.

The first pitch is a killer "C"-shaped arch,. Starts with a long leftward traverse into a corner, then up and right on laybacks then a traverse right toward the belay, all the while jamming, laybacking and underclinging the flake/crack. 2 bolt belay.

The 2nd pitch, which gave the route it's name ( ), involves some gear in a small dihedral, then some committing moves up to an updated bolt (thanks to the ASCA). Climbing from here backs off and you can finish up in the vicinity of the huge detached boulder/tree (it's solid) or up higher.

The climbing may not warrant a full on "R" rating anymore, with our fancy-pants new gear, but I'll reserve that judgement for now, as I followed the 2nd pitch.


On Neptune's upper face, right of Rapture of the Steep. Large, obvious arch. Starts more right than you probably think.


stoppers, including brassies if you got em, doubles up to thin hands with probably be plenty

Photos of Cream of Belay Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Clay on pitch 1
Clay on pitch 1

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By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 9, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

This climb is great. Thanks to Clay for replacing the scary 1/4" buttonhead on pitch 2. I'd suggest making sure you have at least one #2 and #3 Camalot. We did not use a #4 on the wide roof crack but it may be useful.

I agree with Clay that with modern climbing gear this climb is probably not R rated, particularly by Reef standards. The second pitch is committing, though.
By greg k
Sep 15, 2013

although i only did the 1st pitch, i'd put it on par w/ rapture. even w/ considerable rope drag and a thought-provoking start this climb was spectacular!
By Jake Croft
From: Tucson, Az
Jun 8, 2014

Looks like the 2 bolt belay for the first pitch in the picture only has one of its bolts now.

Also, does anyone know anything about the sport route directly to the right of this? (not finding Guinness). Doesn't look like its on MP yet
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 9, 2014

It is Reef Stricken which starts left of the start of
cream. Read the description.
By Justin Headley
From: Tucson
Jul 2, 2017

I would have been more comfortable if I had brought triples of .4-1, but made do with some backcleaning and large nuts. Be careful to not get the rope stuck in the roof crack. Is the hanging anchor that's currently made from webbing, 1 bolt, and 1 nut really the anchor? Or is the intention to go up another 15 feet to the anchor of Reef Stricken?
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 3, 2017

The route is two pitches. Build an anchor and finish it or put in a set of bolts up and left. I could do that if I get there this year. There used to be a poorly located anchor that allowed you to lower off after the first pitch but that got removed as is allowed people to avoid the finish of Reef Stricken.

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