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Creag An Dubh-Loch (Cliff of Dark Loch)

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Central Gully Wall 
Central Slabs, The 

Creag An Dubh-Loch (Cliff of Dark Loch) Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 2,300'
Location: 56.92997, -3.26101 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 494
Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andy Weinmann on Jun 3, 2014
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Description 

Fantastic climbing in the Southern Cairngorms. The best expanse of granite anywhere in Britain at over 1km long and about 300m high. These are mostly high-quality routes of good length and make for a great day out. Start early and be prepared for anything and everything. Has a very alpine feel to it.

The main climbing areas are the Central Slabs and the Central Gully Wall, although there are excellent climbs on the Broad Terrace Wall. Eagles Rock is also part of this area and faces the Dubh Loch looking south.

The cliff faces northeast, so it gets sun for about half the day in the summer. Eagles Rock gets nice afternoon sunshine.

It's generally a secluded area and you can camp at the head of the Loch. Alternatively, you can sleep up in the howff (basically a shelter under some boulders) below the Central Slabs or back at the bothy (backpackers cabin) on the backside of the Royal Shooting Lodge (Glas-allt-Shiel) about a 1 hour hike from the base.

Getting There 

From Ballater, head east out of town crossing the bridge over the River Dee, then turn right and follow the B976 south for a little over 1/2 a mile. Turn left at the Bridge of Muick and head up the small single-track road (signs for Loch/Glen Muick) for quite a few miles until you come to a parking lot with a pay-and-display.

Hike through past the visitor center and turn right onto the the path that heads to the north side of Loch Muick. You'll cross a bridge over the outflow of the Loch. Turn left onto the dirt road along the Loch and hike on for about 1.5 hours (2.5 miles or so) to the Shooting Lodge. Continue on the path which turns into a footpath for a further hour (2 miles) to the base.

Climbing Season

For the Scotland area.

Weather station 8.8 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Creag An Dubh-Loch (Cliff of Dark Loch)
Rock Climbing Photo: General line of Cyclops

Cyclops 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : The Central Slabs
A classic route that follows a direct line of cracks up the slabs. Start below the overhangs in the middle of the Central Slabs on a small grassy ledge. Look for two parallel cracks that head up towards the overhangs.I've described the route using Gary Latter's guidebook and from my own memory of climbing it in 2013.Pitches can sometimes be linked, especially 4&5, 6&7 and 8&9. Watch your rope drag if using a single-rope.P1: Climb the left of the two cracks up and past a right-facing corner to...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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