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4. The Perfect Wave Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bonsai T 
Bubbles T 
Crazy Woman Driver T 
Cruise Control T 
First Wave, The T 
Friday's Friend T 
Perfect Wave T 
Petroglyph, The T 
Silver Surfer T 
Super Slab T 
Take A Giant Step 5.8+PG / 5.7-5.6 PG-R T 
Tsunami T 

Crazy Woman Driver 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c X

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c X [details]
FA: Susan Patenaude, Ed Webster Nov 1980
Page Views: 154
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Oct 8, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at P2 of CWD from the belay stance. CAR...

Description 

One of the few climbs in New Hampshire whose First Ascent was led by a woman. Having never drilled a bolt, Susan decided not to try her first while standing on 5.7 friction, and just led up through the P2 crux.

See also the ROUTE PHOTO posted to Cruise Control.

Approach - The first pitch of this climb is probably the same as Bonsai (see that climb for the approach description) and then from the top of the "Bonsai Sub-Slab" it probably coincides with the climb "Super Slab" for 50 ft to a P1 belay shared with "Super Slab". ( 3 Pitons at this belay, the lowest of which is original from Super Slab's FA in 1973.)
However, it is possible to easily climb from the right end of the Tsunami Ledge to this belay: it is about 60 ft up and to the right at the base of a left-curving flake that turns into an arch. About 15-20 ft above the flake is a 2 ft pine tree, similar to the "Bonsai Tree", and maybe just as old! (I.e. 50+ years, please take care!]

P1 - Climb the first pitch of Bonsai. (5.9- R/X) Then continue on a rising traverse to the left for 50 +/- ft to the belay (fixed pins) at the base of the arching flake. 150 +/- ft.
ALTERNATELY- Climb 60 ft up and right from the end of the Tsunami ledge to the belay. 60 ft 5.2
NOTE:From this belay the ground can be reached with a single 70m rope, but not a single 60m.

P2 - Climb directly up, passing to the left of the tiny pine tree, and headed for a 4" arching "overlap". Upon reaching it, step left ( crux, somehow Susan got gear in!?) then over it at the obvious step. Now easily up to the trees. 125 +/- ft 5.9- X

Descent(s) - 1) Rap from trees with 2 ropes. 2) Alternately, from about 10 feet above the overlap move up-and-slightly LEFT to a double bolt anchor. From here, a 60M JUST makes it back to the belay stance (obviously a 70M is better). From the belay, Down-Climb (or tension-traverse rap) back to the "Tsunami" base tree ledge.

Protection 

Parachute


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By john strand
From: southern colo
Aug 9, 2016

If memory serves me right..Bob Rotert(who also was on the f/a team) called this one a "good N carolina) type route.

I say even a bit run out for Rotert..and that's really saying quite a lot !