Crazy Woman Crags Rock Climbing
The Easy Wall (no routes) and TLC Wall as seen fro...
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Five separate reefs of Bighorn Dolomite rising above high-country meadows just south of Highway 16 in the southern Bighorns. Only 3 of the cliffs have developed climbing (the other 2 don't have nearly the quality or potential). The Crazy Woman Cliff and the TLC Wall both hold many excellent sport routes from 5.10-5.13 with lots of beautifully featured steep terrain remenisicent of Tensleep Canyon. Dirt roads off of the highway deposit one within minutes of the walls, making this a slackers delight. Good undeveloped camping can be found throughout the area, but be discreet and pick up after yourself! Please read the above comments on access concerns before visiting the area and be especially conscientious while out here.
The cliffs face SW and get lots of sun, but the area is at a high altitude and generally remains cool and pleasant in the summer. During the hottest months, mornings and evenings are still great, and shady spots along the crags can be found (the left side of Crazy Woman Cliff being prime).
These cliffs saw there first routes back in '88 by the super motivated Alex Catlin, who was living in Buffalo for a summer. He left many impressive testpieces behind. Ken Trout, along with his wife and friends, spearheaded the second round of activity in 1992 and left many classic sport lines behind them. Other Wyoming locals have passed through and left their mark. This is now Buffalo's premier venue!
They cliffs are a couple miles south of Highway 16 (between Buffalo and Tensleep over the Bighorn Mountains) and easily visible from the Highway. When coming from Buffalo, they are about 25 miles out (well before Powder River Pass). From Highway 16, the cliffs are approached via secondary dirt roads that are generally in good condition and passable for all vehicles. Specific approach directions are given for each individual cliff. Driving time from Buffalo is around 45 minutes. Another perk of the area is that these approach roads deposit you very close to the cliffs, keeping hiking time to 5 minutes or less. Specific driving directions will be detailed for each wall in their descriptions.
Climbing Season For the Eastern Big Horns area.
Weather station 1.7 miles from here
10 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Crazy Woman Crags
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Crazy Woman Crags
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Crazy Woman Crags:
Featured Route For Crazy Woman Crags
Bighorn Roundup 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b WY
: Eastern Big Horns
: ... : Crazy Woman Cliff
A seriously sustained endeavor offering the best Wyoming dolomite has to offer. Look for the beautiful, steep, white prow towards the center of the cliff (no trees at the base so it's visible from the road/parking). The feature is obvious and begs to be climbed. Start with a fun burly lieback and gain a beautiful white prow. Begin busting out hard moves straight up this prow and don't stop 'til you clip the anchors. Great edging, big & powerful movement, and plenty of classic two-finger pockets....[more] Browse More Classics in WY
Bring the pads too, there's tons of fun little...
BETA PHOTO: Red dots mark Bighorn Roundup, 5.12b (?) Blacks ar...
BETA PHOTO: Red dots mark Bury the Hatchet.
Marsha working one of the very difficult routes pu...
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Aug 3, 2010
Rock Climbs of the Eastern Bighorns is finally on the shelves! It provides comprehensive beta for Crazy Woman Crags and the other major crags of Sheridan/Buffalo area. Available at retailers throughout the area like: Rendezvous Trading Co., Backcountry Bicycles, Bighorn Mountain Sports, Sports Lure. PM me if you want a copy mailed.