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Crazy Woman Crags

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Crazy Woman Cliff 

Crazy Woman Crags Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 8,500'
Page Views: 8,514
Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Jun 7, 2009
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The Easy Wall (no routes) and TLC Wall as seen fro...

Open public lands (Forest Service). Respect adjacent landowners. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Five separate reefs of Bighorn Dolomite rising above high-country meadows just south of Highway 16 in the southern Bighorns. Only 3 of the cliffs have developed climbing (the other 2 don't have nearly the quality or potential). The Crazy Woman Cliff and the TLC Wall both hold many excellent sport routes from 5.10-5.13 with lots of beautifully featured steep terrain remenisicent of Tensleep Canyon. Dirt roads off of the highway deposit one within minutes of the walls, making this a slackers delight. Good undeveloped camping can be found throughout the area, but be discreet and pick up after yourself! Please read the above comments on access concerns before visiting the area and be especially conscientious while out here.

The cliffs face SW and get lots of sun, but the area is at a high altitude and generally remains cool and pleasant in the summer. During the hottest months, mornings and evenings are still great, and shady spots along the crags can be found (the left side of Crazy Woman Cliff being prime).

These cliffs saw there first routes back in '88 by the super motivated Alex Catlin, who was living in Buffalo for a summer. He left many impressive testpieces behind. Ken Trout, along with his wife and friends, spearheaded the second round of activity in 1992 and left many classic sport lines behind them. Other Wyoming locals have passed through and left their mark. This is now Buffalo's premier venue!

Getting There 

They cliffs are a couple miles south of Highway 16 (between Buffalo and Tensleep over the Bighorn Mountains) and easily visible from the Highway. When coming from Buffalo, they are about 25 miles out (well before Powder River Pass). From Highway 16, the cliffs are approached via secondary dirt roads that are generally in good condition and passable for all vehicles. Specific approach directions are given for each individual cliff. Driving time from Buffalo is around 45 minutes. Another perk of the area is that these approach roads deposit you very close to the cliffs, keeping hiking time to 5 minutes or less. Specific driving directions will be detailed for each wall in their descriptions.

Climbing Season

For the Eastern Big Horns area.

Weather station 1.7 miles from here

11 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',5],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Crazy Woman Crags

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Crazy Woman Crags:
Bury the Hatchet   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   Crazy Woman Cliff
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Crazy Woman Crags

Featured Route For Crazy Woman Crags
Rock Climbing Photo: Total Eclipse of the Heart

Total Eclipse of the Heart 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  Wyoming : Eastern Big Horns : ... : Crazy Woman Cliff
A great new addition to a beautiful crag that's already stacked with classics. Begin with a hard boulder problem (stick clip!) leaving the ground and continue through 5 bolts of fun, unique low-end 5.12 climbing. Rock over and milk the no hands rest. Once rested adequately, pull a few entry moves then begin the nearly perfect ladder of pockets (mostly 2-finger) that builds to the crux below the last bolt. A few moves of easier tech will see you to the chains....[more]   Browse More Classics in Wyoming

Photos of Crazy Woman Crags Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bring the pads too, there's tons of fun little...
Bring the pads too, there's tons of fun little...
Rock Climbing Photo: Red dots mark Bighorn Roundup, 5.12b (?) Blacks ar...
BETA PHOTO: Red dots mark Bighorn Roundup, 5.12b (?) Blacks ar...
Rock Climbing Photo: Red dots mark Bury the Hatchet.
BETA PHOTO: Red dots mark Bury the Hatchet.
Rock Climbing Photo: Marsha working one of the very difficult routes pu...
Marsha working one of the very difficult routes pu...

Comments on Crazy Woman Crags Add Comment
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By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Aug 3, 2010
Rock Climbs of the Eastern Bighorns Second Edition is the source for beta for this area. It provides comprehensive beta for Crazy Woman Crags (with 4 times the routes listed on here currently) and the other major crags of Sheridan/Buffalo area. Available at retailers throughout the area like: Backcountry Bicycles, Sport Stop, Sports Lure, Ten Sleep Brewery, the Rock Ranch, and Dirty Sally's. Check out Amazon to buy from the author directly, or just PM me here if you want a copy mailed.
By j wharton
Jun 28, 2017
Buy the latest edition of Trevor's guidebook and check this zone out, it's excellent!

climbingwyoming.com/guidebooks...

The climbing and camping in the Crazy Woman area is amazing. It's the sort of place that will never be truly popular, as it's too far from any major population area. That said, with a bit of traffic, the climbing will clean up and be every bit as good as the Ten Sleep classics.

Borderlands and TLC crags are particularly good for harder climbing; both have micro approaches, and far better summer conditions than any Ten Sleep crag. Loads of quality hard routes up to 14a, and many open projects that could be harder.
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Jul 24, 2017
Thanks for the props Josh, and glad you had a great time up here!

If you want a copy prior to a trip up here, and are the type that likes to go straight to the source, buy a copy from me! I have them posted on Amazon, and am also happy to mail directly if you just PM me here on the Proj.

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