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Crazy Mad Rock Gemini double-biner
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Jul 22, 2016
instagram.com/p/BIC40P_ga3T/?t...

Rock Climbing Photo: Mad Rock biner?
Mad Rock biner?


Any clue what this, and what it's for?
Nathanael
From Riverside, CA
Joined May 27, 2011
256 points
Jul 22, 2016


Oh. I looked some more. It's called the Gemini and it's a belay carabiner. Seems like a terribly over-engineered solution to something as simple as belay device cross-loading, considering how simple the capture wires on other products are.
Nathanael
From Riverside, CA
Joined May 27, 2011
256 points
Jul 23, 2016
In most situations, I just don't actually worry that much about a cross-loaded belay biner. In no top-rope or single-pitch lead situation will the force on my belay biner even come close to the 7-9 kN cross-load rating. The only point I might worry about this, is if I'm catching a high-factor fall off the anchor in a multi-pitch situation. I try to avoid those for other reasons than belay biner cross-load, though. David Gibbs
From Ottawa, ON
Joined Aug 18, 2010
10 points
Jul 23, 2016
Black Diamond Gridlock seems infinitely more elegant.

Honestly, it is pretty nice just 100% taking cross-loading out of the equation. I am a fan.
mission
Joined Feb 25, 2010
2 points
Jul 23, 2016
Wish it had a nicer top bar cross-section. I'll get one of these because it's goofy and I love gadgets, but for belaying with a tube device the best picks are the WC Ascent Lite Belay, and the Grivel Clepsydra, which both have nice big, round top bars. Noah Yetter
From Lakewood, CO
Joined Jul 13, 2015
121 points
Jul 23, 2016
Man... That is one complex and over-engineered fix to what is barely a problem.

This is my go to solution for belay biner cross loading





I am not at all concerned about cross loading of belay biners. That said, all of my belay biners have some sort of anti cross load feature, not because I think it's a safety concern (I do not when it comes to belay biners) but because I am a control freak. I don't like my belay biners spinning around when a don't want them to, and I never want them to.
Khoi
From Vancouver, BC
Joined Oct 12, 2009
39 points
Jul 24, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me
Dafuq?


I'll probably get one and never use it... I like weird gear...
JK-
From SLC
Joined Nov 3, 2012
21 points
Jul 25, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: profile
i like my metolius gatekeeper



metoliusclimbing.com/gatekeepe...
Rich zz
From california
Joined Oct 2, 2012
183 points
Nov 25, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Hanging out on Royal Arches
It looks like it's promoting bad habits because the one side looks like it's not locked even though it is. Tristan B
From La Crescenta, CA
Joined Oct 1, 2009
1,509 points
Nov 25, 2016
The whole fascination with anti-cross-loading gimmickry for belay biners is so perplexing to me.

Has anyone, in the history of rock climbing, ever had a locking biner break by cross-loading in a belay situation? (I'm talking about normal belay scenarios, not rope-solo)
mpech
Joined Sep 8, 2013
40 points
Nov 25, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: en route to wham ridge  Photo by Carl Schnitker
mpech wrote:
The whole fascination with anti-cross-loading gimmickry for belay biners is so perplexing to me. Has anyone, in the history of rock climbing, ever had a locking biner break by cross-loading in a belay situation? (I'm talking about normal belay scenarios, not rope-solo)

biners breaking isn't the only issue with crossloading. It also make some belay devices harder to operate and is really annoying.
eli poss
From Durango, Co
Joined May 9, 2014
422 points
Nov 26, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: On the North America Wall in 1977.
mpech wrote:
The whole fascination with anti-cross-loading gimmickry for belay biners is so perplexing to me. Has anyone, in the history of rock climbing, ever had a locking biner break by cross-loading in a belay situation? (I'm talking about normal belay scenarios, not rope-solo)


I totally agree. A solution to a problem that doesn't exist.
Mark Hudon
From Lives on the road
Joined Jul 27, 2009
373 points
Nov 26, 2016
Mark Hudon wrote:
I totally agree. A solution to a problem that doesn't exist.


I can only speak for myself.

The problem that it is a solution for is not an issue of safety; it is an issue of annoyance.
Khoi
From Vancouver, BC
Joined Oct 12, 2009
39 points
Nov 26, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: On the North America Wall in 1977.
I agree with the annoying part but I don't believe it was designed to solve an annoyance. Mark Hudon
From Lives on the road
Joined Jul 27, 2009
373 points
Nov 26, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Double dog dare
Anti crossload biners may help with autotubers like the Megajul/Up. Thoughts? Firestone
From Mountain View
Joined Nov 23, 2015
480 points
Nov 26, 2016
Firestone wrote:
Anti crossload biners may help with autotubers like the Megajul/Up. Thoughts?


Get a Mega Jul package. It comes with cross-loading preventing binner.
Pavel Burov
Joined May 6, 2013
70 points
Nov 26, 2016
Firestone wrote:
Anti crossload biners may help with autotubers like the Megajul/Up. Thoughts?


There´s a fair few like the Smart, ClickUp and so on that don´t work at all if the karabiner is crossed. Some don´t even work with things like the Belay Master.
Jim Titt
From Germany
Joined Nov 10, 2009
365 points
Nov 26, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: en route to wham ridge  Photo by Carl Schnitker
Jim Titt wrote:
There´s a fair few like the Smart, ClickUp and so on that don´t work at all if the karabiner is crossed. Some don´t even work with things like the Belay Master.

You wouldn't want to use a biner like that for a smart, though, as it doesn't have a round cross-section. That being said, I think the mad rock thing is over-engineered. A simple wiregate is much simpler solution. Keep it simple, stupid.
eli poss
From Durango, Co
Joined May 9, 2014
422 points
Nov 27, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Killis Howard?
eli poss wrote:
biners breaking isn't the only issue with crossloading. It also make some belay devices harder to operate and is really annoying.


when crossloaded, the non-smooth metal bits to lock the gate will wear a belay loop prematurely

a locker with agate is easy and cheap belay loop insurance
Tim Lutz
Joined Aug 9, 2012
43 points


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