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Upper South Corner Cliffs
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Action Steps T 
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Crazy Lace T 
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SMASH! S 
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Tourist Trap T 

Crazy Lace 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: June 2014
New Route: Yes
Season: Apr - Oct
Page Views: 203
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Jul 1, 2014

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Jay Harrison near the crux

Description 

Difficult moves through both overhangs; the traverse along the tips crack is more mentally challenging than difficult.
Climb up to the left-facing corner where the crack reaches it. Through the initial overhang, then follow the crack up and right. It swings horizontal; follow it. After 12', it swings upward again, through an overhang. Follow it through the overhang to a good stance (escape possible to the right), then traverse left 10' along a tips crack to its end (.3 C4 here). Climb unprotected, but easy knobs to another stance, then follow a right-rising crack to a fixed anchor on an oak tree near the top of the cliff.

Location 

On the Ape X Wall, 50' right of Ape X; at the edge of short level spot above the lower end of the ledge. Look for a left-facing corner 8' up, at an overhang, with a right-rising crack running through it.

Protection 

Standard Adk Trad rack, plus doubles of 3/4 to 1" cams.


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