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Crazy Horse 

Hueco: V3 Font: 6A

   
Type:  Boulder, 17'
Original:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: Kayle Koeppen
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,083
Submitted By: Aaron Parlier on Jul 2, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Ronnie Black Jr. on Crazy Horse. CJ Yunger photo.

Description 

Walk from the parking lot to the only boulder you can see and this will be the rock house boulder. once at the boulder, find the area where the two boulders converge to form a dihedral. Crazy Horse sit-starts four feet to the left (in front of the bad root/stump landing you have to spot and pad from) from the dihedral two low jugs, then up into two higher jug holds. from there, make a huge dyno to a giant jug ledge where you will kick a high heel-hook out to the right on. this is where things get interesting...
lockoff hard on your left and gain a high, heady, mental intensive right hand side-pull and then stab a left hand into to a small slot. thank-god top out holds follow.

Location 

Walk from the parking lot to the only boulder you can see and this will be the rock house boulder. once at the boulder, find the area where the two boulders converge to form a dihedral. Crazy Horse sit-starts four feet to the left (in front of the bad root/stump landing you have to spot and pad from) from the dihedral two low jugs.

Protection 

PADS!!!


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By Dan Fenner
Jun 26, 2017
rating: V4+ 6B+ PG13

Broken hold as of 2017: a large hold has broken off of this problem. This hold would allow a climber to make a long static left hand move from the crux position (with the heel on). Now a climber must make a slightly dynamic left hand move up to a good crimp. This makes the problem a little harder and much more scary. Still an excellent problem. Now it goes at V4-V5.
By Aaron Parlier
Administrator
From: Boone, NC
Jun 26, 2017

Thanks for the update Dan!

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