Crazy Horse General Area Rock Climbing
Inside the Anxiety State cave.
|Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>|
The easiest way to get there is to come from the climbing shop in town, Chaing Mai Rock Climbing Adventures (CMRCA). This is in the "quiet" SE corner of the Old City at the corner of Rajchapainai and Soy 3. Do not expect that your tuk-tuk or airport cab will know where this is. Maps are also foreign to most of them, so, like, ehhh... well, good luck.
They will, however know where the Julie Guesthouse, the T.K. Guesthouse the J.J Guesthouse or the Same Same Guesthouse. If you can make it there and walk down the street just past Pooh EcoTours, you will find the small and barely marked shop next door.
CMRCA will provide transportation for 395 baht per day; add another 75 baht if you want a hot lunch. You'll ride in a red truck taxi, which leaves town at 8:30am, and returns at 4.30pm. You will want to reserve your seat in advance. Your transportation fee also includes fresh drinking water at the crag.
You can also pick up a map and rent a scooter and drive. The directions are in the guidebook for the area.
Crazy Horse Buttress is the jewel of northern Thailand climbing. It is a very different experience than Railay: You are swapping seaside views for arid jungle. You also lose the convenience of hopping out of your bungalow and and being able to clip your first bolt five minutes later -- instead, you have a 45 minute commute from town. The upside is that the climbing here is rarely crowded, and many of the routes are less polished. Crazy Horse also offers the opportunity to climb inside some substantial caves: Morning Glory, for example, is a 5.10 about 100' feet long in the Windy Cave. The Anxiety State cave has some short and easy routes, as well as multipitch classic testpieces. Routes are generally well bolted. And, although Crazy Horse does not have the corrosion problems of Railay, the area is gradually being rebolted with titanium glue-ins. Chiang Mai is also a vibrant city, with lots of opportunities for rest day activities.
The entry to the lower Anxiety State cave. The (upper area of) cave is a popular caving spot for the CMRCA.
There are three seasons for climbing in Chiang Mai: hot, hotter, and hot and wet. Daytime highs will often hit 100F by April (Note: temps at the crag will often be several degrees cooler than in town). Summer gets quite warm, and there is a rainy season in early fall. Overall, the rainy season for Crazy Horse is shorter than for Railay, and average humidity levels are a little lower as well. Here's a link to the Wikipedia entry for the seasonal weather norms: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiang_M...
It is possible to chase shade all day. Also, it can be quite cool on winter mornings, particularly if you are riding a scooter from town.
Dangers and hazards: Honey bees build large nests on the underside of roofs, and are aggressive. In contrast, wax bees have short tube-like nests, and are pretty harmless. You will find wasps on occasion as well. There are also centipedes, scorpions, and red ants which can inflict nasty bites. The dogs that live at the cliff are generally friendly, and the monkeys here are rarely seen. Some of the tamarind plants are painful to touch, ditto for nettles found along the trail.
There is often a monk living by the cave system on the right side of the Ant Hill. Please be respectful in this area.
Weather station 13.3 miles from here
130 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',16],['3 Stars',48],['2 Stars',40],['1 Star',21],['Bomb',2]
Classic Climbing Routes in Crazy Horse General Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Crazy Horse General Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Crazy Horse General Area:
Featured Route For Crazy Horse General Area
A Wild Ride on a Crazy Horse 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Asia
: ... : Crazy Horse Buttress
The hardest climb at Crazy Horse. Take the line immediately to the left of the ladder access rungs to the archway. The first 4 bolts go at around 5.11 climbing. From the 4th bolt the route is equipped with insitu quick-draws. The climbing gets increasingly hard and insecure with each bolt. Before maxing out with the 5.13c crux mantle as the last move before the anchors. A series of insecure slopers, tiny side pulls and downright tenuous moves comprise the bulk of the hard climbing. Has only seen...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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BETA PHOTO: The super useful local Mae On area map provided at...
Monk's cave by the Ant Hill
The entry to the lower Anxiety State cave. The (u...