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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Crazy Fingers 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Skip Guerin/Bob Horan, date?
Page Views: 3,543
Submitted By: adam brink on May 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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A send of Crazy Fingers.

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  • Description 

    Seldom done and very misunderstood (there is actually plenty of good gear, I swear!), this is an unheralded Eldo classic. The body movement through the thin sidepulls and finger locks is everything a trad climber dreams of; subtle, precise, technical and just a little bit powerful. And to top it off, the climbing is framed by stunning yellow streaks of lichen.


    This thin crack beauty lies to the right of Parallels and Foxtrot. After finishing the last crux and locking the perfect finger jam, traverse left and up past the top of Foxtrot to the Parallels anchors.


    It blows my mind that Guerin and Horan lead this without small Aliens and offsets. Those boys were, well, tough! Now days, the lead is not so severe. Only a small runout from a piece at the first ledge to the next jug and good piece gives this any spice (and the climbing is easy there). After that, it is small cams and RPs.

    Comments on Crazy Fingers Add Comment
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    By Ted Lanzano
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 10, 2007

    Agreed, this route is totally classic. The rock is super solid, it doesn't get much traffic, delicate moves, and lots of other sweet climbs nearby as well.

    There isn't much gear for the start of the climb, but the climbing isn't too hard. Once you get in the first good piece (blue/black offset Alien) from the jug ~15 feet up, you move into the crux and you have to make a high reach to get in the next thin pieces. This can be a bit pumpy and scary, but you're first piece is pretty good.

    This climb could benefit if it had its own fixed anchors. That way you wouldn't have to cross through the top of Fox Trot and Parallels (which can be a logistical challenge) to get the current anchors.
    By StanL
    From: Louisville, CO
    Jul 18, 2008
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

    Lots of varied climbing and just enough gear that kept me from freaking out. Every move is super precise and technical. No fluff from the jug off the ledge to the slab. Make sure to save some strength for the run from the sloping rail to the final finger lock which covers solid 5.11 terrain with gear well below your feet. An onsight of Crazy Fingers would be very impressive!
    By Wayne Crill
    From: an Altered State
    Nov 2, 2008
    rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13

    I agree about the lack of an anchor being really "inconvenient" on this route. After redpointing this route, I was traversing over to the Parallels anchor. I didn't think I'd need any gear for this as I have traveresed around on this slab quite a bit, however I did have a couple nuts just in case. The way I go there is one section thats not trivial, its not hard, I don't know ~5.7 at the hardest, I decided to put a nut in the slab above Foxtrot crack just in case. I was stepping through this little move a bit farther L. and my foot slipped causing me to take an awkward swinging fall and I jacked my back into the dihedral atop Foxtrot, ouch! Whatever?!, my own stupid fault, nevertheless this route is spectacular, quite technical, precise and enjoyable. Classic. I think it's the best of these three cracks. Jalepeño spicy.
    By Dusty
    From: Fort Collins
    Nov 9, 2009

    This climb definitely deserves an anchor. Using the Parallels' anchor is a total drag, literally, when you have to clean. Your rope gets all sorts of chewed up. The three climbs here are definitely popular enough to warrant two anchors.
    By Casey McTaggart
    From: boulder, co
    Apr 18, 2010

    Walking down to Foxtrot and Crazy Fingers today (4/18), we ran into a nice surprise- new anchors above Crazy Fingers. No more sharing with Parallels! Yay! Thank you, guys.
    By Monty
    From: Golden, CO
    Dec 17, 2011
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

    This is a great route that is relatively safe. I found it nice to have (2x) 00 c3s to protect the lower crux. Super fun.

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