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Crazy Bird 
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Crazy Bird 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder, 6'
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: Clint Walker
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 200
Submitted By: Clint Walker on Mar 3, 2016

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Getting the FA of Crazy Bird

Description 

Start on the flexing flake (same as fat man flake) and dyno straight up towards the point. Keep your feet up to prevent dabbing. Top out over the point.

This would be much easier if the feet were better. You have to get a smeary right foot to push yourself in the right direction. Your left foot is on a better hold but it is too low to make much difference. Have fun!

Protection 

Crash pad


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By Brad Caldwell
From: Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Mar 6, 2016

How can this be PG13 when it seems to be so close to the ground you have to worry about dabbing? You do know PG13 means a risk of moderate injury if you fall on the route, right? This seems far from a bad fall potential.
By Clint Walker
Mar 7, 2016

Hey Brad - When adding a boulder problem to Mountain Project the lowest safety grade that can be selected is PG-13. I guess Mountain Project want everyone to be aware that there is always a risk when it comes to climbing.

However, with this problem there is a risk of injury considering the start hold is a flake that flexes for even the lightest people. Pulling hard enough on this flake to do dynamic move can cause it to break off. If that happens 50 lbs or more could be landing on an unfortunate climber.

Don't take my word for it, go check it out yourself! And make sure to try Doctor Hopper, it is the best problem at the crag!
By Brad Caldwell
From: Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Mar 7, 2016

That's perplexingly weird...every time I've added a boulder problem to MP, it has never required me to pick a safety rating. PG13 is usually reserved for a high ball problem with a broken bone potential or a problem with a terrible landing zone that can't be protected well, again with potential to cause substantial damage. A loose flake isn't really a reason to add a safety grade, IMO, for a boulder problem.
By Clint Walker
Mar 8, 2016

If it bothers you that bad I could remove the safety rating all together.
By Brad Caldwell
From: Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Mar 8, 2016

Its just a matter of correctness...the PG13 is unnecessary, but it is "your" route, so do what you will. But I can assure you that others will give you hell for giving a 6' route a safety rating and the fact that Fat Mans Flake uses the same hold but doesnt get that same safety rating.

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