||Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III
|Original: || YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R [details]|
|FA: ||Dave Deschamps, Joe Bernfield, and many others, 1989|
|Season: ||Winter only|
|Page Views: ||1,293|
|Submitted By: ||Aleix on Feb 14, 2011|
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Nearing the end of the 4th pitch
|There is no public access road provided by the BLM to the Coyote Mountains Wilderness Area. MORE INFO >>>|
Access is via PRIVATE land and may be CLOSED! MORE INFO >>>
If you have bailed from other mentally and physically challenging routes in Arizona such as Sensory Desuetude or Coming to Grips, you may actually be able to finish this one.
A significant step-up from Elephantiasis, this route has much better rock and more exposure. Even though all the hard moves are well protected, most often by bolts, it does have some spice in not-so-hard runout terrain.
A good description of every pitch can be found here: climbaz.com/Backcountry/page_h...
Variation: In pitch 5, after the bomb-bay offwidth on "ultra-polished" holds (not as bad as it sounds) and before the chimney with death blocks, there is a 1 bold, I mean 1 bolt variation where you clip a bolt at the base and to the left of the chimney and climb on the outside of it (by Jim Scott and Virgil Davis).
Almost all the pitches are full rope-lengths.
The wall is mostly south facing, but the upper headwall (from top of P3) goes into the shade around 2 or 3pm. Plan accordingly depending on temperatures. It can be hot and sweaty in the sun or quite cold in the shade.
Starts just Left of Elephantiasis, right under the left huge block at the end of the 1st pitch. The first bolt (50 feet up) can be seen from the ground.
Double rack up to .75 or #1, then one #2 and one #3. Stoppers. 14 or so draws, half of them extendables. We didn't use any RPs but aliens are very useful.
Moving into the huecos higher up
Wyatt flashing the very difficult 3rd pitch
Wyatt following the very "R" second pitc...
BETA PHOTO: Crater Genetics in blue (by me), Elephantiasis in ...
From: Sedona, AZ
Dec 31, 2016
An adventure that will probably never be repeated by me! Third time's a charm, as they say. Took 3 attempts to get all the way up the thing. This was all in the 90s; I hear there's some new/better pro & variations now. We broke holds, took a 20 foot fall (a no-no in Mendoza), and did the slip & slide thing on bird shit. Been there--done that! A burly, headsy adventure, for sure!