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Avalauncher TR 
Batshit Crack T,TR 
Beginner's T,TR 
Crap On T,TR 
Flare T,TR 
Half Moons (aka Clockwork) T,TR 
Hard Crack T,TR 
Have a Nice Day Yucca T,TR 
Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) T,TR 
Phone Booth T,TR 
Rumsey's Lead T,TR 
Sharon's Lead T,TR 
Sharon's Sandbag T,TR 
Thumb Action T,TR 
Twin Cracks T,TR 
Unnamed T,TR 

Crap On 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 35
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Aug 22, 2008

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Description 

Borrowing the naming convention from Fred Rassmussen, this route climbs better than the name implies. Stem up the clean, low angle dihedral as it steepens and then finish with nice pockets on the vertical wall. Just as you're getting warmed up and into the groove, the route ends.

Location 

This is the first dihedral route just right, north, of the "orange rough wall" on the far south end of the area. Look for the words Crap on spray painted on the rock. This route goes up and left from that graffiti.

Protection 

Gear on this route appears infrequent and tiny but it turns out that nice horizontal cracks on the sides of the dihedral offer opportunities for .5 and .75 camalots. A 0 or 00 C3 would fit in one spot down low in the corner of the dihedral. Two-bolt anchor at top.


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