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Trashcan Rock - West Face
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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Scott Little, November 1972
Page Views: 2,712
Submitted By: Mark J. Nelson on Jan 2, 2003

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Nate "Night Train" Knight pulling the do...


Just right of center on the west face, there's a ledge about ten feet wide and five feet high. You can gain the ledge through unprotected but relatively easy climbing at either end.

Cranny starts from the right end of the ledge, and follows the obvious double crack system. It requires an interesting combination of techniques, and protection is adequate but not copious.


Standard rack, including small cams (Aliens).

Photos of Cranny Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Good short double Hand crack.
Good short double Hand crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Savannah pointing the way to Cranny (5.8)
BETA PHOTO: Savannah pointing the way to Cranny (5.8)
Rock Climbing Photo: Cameron is only 8!!  What a stud!
Cameron is only 8!! What a stud!
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on Cranny
Climber on Cranny

Comments on Cranny Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 15, 2017
By Brian Reynolds
Nov 29, 2003
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I didn't realize how steep this climb is until I was into the alcove and standing at the base. Fun, interesting climb.
By Infernal Doom Fanatic
Oct 1, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Better as a toprope.The crack gets sandy and the pro can be dubious and tricky. Quite steep for a 5.8 and the final moves are a mutha!
By namascar
Apr 4, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Belaying from the first ledge above the ground makes this climb much safer. Otherwise, a leader fall higer up can end up on the leader hitting the second ledge, due to rope stretch.
By Blitzo
Sep 10, 2006

Fun route.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 7, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This climb is surprisingly fun! I found solid gear, and never felt that the protection was dubious (and I'm pretty picky about good gear!) Definitely steep for a 5.8!
By 72HW Holly
Mar 3, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Maybe this one has cleaned up over the years, I found the pro to be bomber and saw little of the above mentioned sand. Went on a nut down low and two BD #1's. Top out moves are powerful to say the least, and the high step layback is tons of fun. Overall, an exciting - if all too short - lead that I will do again!
By Joe M
From: Beckley, wv
Jan 11, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I thought this climb was a lot easier than it looked (althogh I only toproped it). The pro looked a little sketchy, would love to lead it otherwise. I stemmed most of the way up which probably made it feel easier.
By Colin Parker
From: Idyllwild, CA
May 27, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Way more fun than I expected for such a short route! First 5.8 lead.
By attila
Feb 16, 2010

Take just a light rack of cams and nuts. Lots of stemming. Last moves at the top are definitely stout.
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 9, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Short, a better toprope than as a lead. All of an "8."
By Ken Noyce
From: Layton, UT
Dec 20, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This climb is tons of fun (if only it could have been 4 times as long). The moves are varied and cool and the protection was great. No need for aliens, I placed a .75, 1, and 2 C4 all of which were bomber. As for the rating, I didn't know what it was rated before jumping on it and when I got to the top I said it felt like 5.8, so I'd say the rating is right on.
By Canon
Nov 8, 2011

Good climb. Was scratching my head at the crux until I figured out to stem wide and lieback.
By CrazyCranium
From: Eden Prairie, MN
Apr 10, 2014

Just left of the double cracks on Cranny, there is a shallow left leaning crack that we were able to climb on the same toprope. Does anyone know the name and rating of this climb? I was unable to find it on MP or in any of the guidebooks we had. I would expect it to be in the low 5.10 range.
By dnaiscool
Apr 18, 2015

Great climb, but I did note "Bad Fall Potential" in my anecdotal notes for the route.
By M Meyers
Feb 15, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

All the gear on this is good, black and green master cams did the trick.

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