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Jam or Slam Rock (SW Face)
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Amionit TR 
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Fire or Retire T 

Cranking Skills or Hospital Bills 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R [details]
FA: Unknown, '84
Page Views: 413
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Nov 26, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Deploy the Aliens! - CC at the crux. Photo by Be...

Description 

This route begins left of Fire Or Retire in thin discontinuous cracks. The left crack widens to a finger / hand crack and ends in a large depression. Unprotected 5.10 face climbing leads to a two bolt anchor / rappel station. Crux moves off the deck and at the top.

Protection 

Very small TCU's (#00 - #1) or brass down low. Medium cams in the hand crack and a #3 TCU before the runout finish. Two bolt anchor on top.


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By C Miller
Administrator
From: CA
Dec 2, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

An alternative (and better protected) finish you can do is to cut right and top out via Fire or Retire. A small tricam is handy for the direct finish and although runout the hardest moves come not far above your gear.

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