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Crankbugs S 
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Thread Lightly T 
Tideways T 

Crankbugs 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Ray Ringle '86
Page Views: 642
Submitted By: Alex Kirkpatrick on Mar 7, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Crankbugs follows the blue line. I bolted an exten...

Description 

This killer line requires delicate footwork, strong nerves, commitment to impossible looking sequences, and more endurance than you would think: A complex and classic route. This climb starts just left of Doubt on a ledge. Navigate vertical and sparsely bolted terrain for ~60ft and then use wizardry to float up a thin seam as the terrain steepens. You may want to clip off you sorcerers staff at a decent rest, because its on all the way to the chains from here! Big whips possible and likely. Do not expect to clip up bolts on this one.

Note: a 70m rope just reaches the ground from the extension anchors. It is likely you could do just Crankbugs on a 60, but I have not done it.

Location 

Just left of Doubt. Begin off same ledge.

Protection 

Bolts. Bring several extendable runners


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By Alex Kirkpatrick
Mar 7, 2015

All hardware replaced in 2014. Extension clocks in around 12+ and is an open project as of Feb 2015.