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Varnished Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Circle of Benevolence T 
Crank Queenie T 
Disco Sucks T 
Double Crux T 
East Meets West T 
Mosaic T 
Presence of Grace T 
With Malice and Forethought T 

Crank Queenie 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Scott Stuemke & Dick Armstrong, 1977
Page Views: 1,146
Submitted By: M. Morley on Oct 21, 2002

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just enough crack to get by


Crank Queenie is located on the NW side of the Varnished Wall. It is a shallow hand crack that is a bit tricky to protect for the first 20' (sideways-placed nuts, awkward cam placements). Above, the crack deepens and is quite pleasant.

Anchor: slung horn(s).

Descent: scramble off to climber's right or rap off slung horns as for With Malice and Forethought.


Single cams .75 to 2", a couple of med/lg nuts.

Photos of Crank Queenie Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Crank Queenie" solo. Photo by Blitzo.
"Crank Queenie" solo. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: I loved this climb.
I loved this climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: Setting pro on Crank Queenie - (c) Scott Nomi
Setting pro on Crank Queenie - (c) Scott Nomi

Comments on Crank Queenie Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 9, 2015
By Murf
Nov 6, 2002

Thought the downclimb was harder than the climb. I love JT!
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 3, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Good rock, good moves for the grade
By Anonymous Coward
May 17, 2005

good toe jams. and i agree the downclimb was pretty hard.
By Blitzo
Sep 18, 2006

Looks like sinker jams from a distance, but they're not,
By Isaac T.
From: Yokosuka, Japan
Dec 26, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I thought that this was a pretty fun little crack, laybacking, fist jams, and a finger lock as well. I enjoyed climbing it. There is a nice horn to rap off of, when I went off there was a sling and a locking D (12-24-06)
By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Nov 23, 2009

The rap slings are at the top of Malice.
By Brandontyrrell tyrrell
Jan 11, 2010

flaring crack, looks like a nice hard crack but its good from a far but far from good
By Nathan Scherneck
From: Portland, OR
Nov 8, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

We rapped off the large horn at the top-out of Crank Queenie. It's got obvious wear from other parties rapping / pulling their ropes.
By Kyle Wills
From: Chicago, IL
Dec 6, 2010

Never have I used ring locks in such a direct manner before. The perfect technique for this shallow crack IMHO. The money is truly solid foot jamming however.
By Dave Kos
From: Temecula, CA
Feb 16, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun, but not as fun as it looks from the road.
By David Gibbs
From: Ottawa, ON
Oct 9, 2015

If you climb far enough to rap from the slings at the top of Malice, then this climb is far closer to 90ft than the 40ft indicated.

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