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f. Cramped Face
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Shalestorm T,S 

Cramped Thumb 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R [details]
FA: Francis DeMonterey and John Gyer (1963) (FFA)
Page Views: 352
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on May 16, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Cramped Thumb Face. Higher than I follows the obv...

Description 

P1 - Climb the nice face just left of the small corner past an old, bent pin, then move up and right to an overhang. Clear the overhang at a notch, then follow a groove to a small ledge with old pitons and the original belay. Traverse left around a corner to a better belay (#2 Camalot).

P2 - Traverse way right under the overhang to a left-facing corner and bypass the overhang using awkward moves. Follow a dirty crack up and left to the top.

Can be done in one pitch and this avoids the odd belay position. Long slings or double ropes helpful.

Location 

At the face just left of a small, left-facing corner on the Cramped Thumb Face. This will be the face between the 2nd and 3rd of three small left-facing corners on this section of rock.

Protection 

Standard Rack. Crux protects, but runout in easier sections.


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