REI Community
17 - This and That Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cramming T 
Said and Done T 
Scram S 
This and That T 
Tips T 
Walk, Don't Run (aka The Bouldering Arch) 
Whim T 


YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Steve Wunsch, Matt Donahoe, George Meyers, Jim Donini & Rab Carrington 1972
Season: Winter
Page Views: 2,387
Submitted By: Darko Sarenac on Sep 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


If the angle was any wider, this would be a corner with thin hand crack; if it was any more acute, it would be a flaring chimney with thin hands in the back. As it is, it just hard to classify. The crux is right off the ground, awkward 1 1/4 inch jams. It eases off after 25 feet.


The far right side of This and That Cliff. The climb start from a flat wide ledge some 20'' off the ground.


Cams up to 2. Doubles .5 and .75.

Photos of Cramming Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Like a chimney
BETA PHOTO: Like a chimney
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting started on Cramming
Getting started on Cramming

Comments on Cramming Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Dec 17, 2007

Gear recomendation: Red alien, 1.25 friend, 2#.75 cam 2-3#1cam 2#2Cam
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Feb 1, 2011

The first few feet seemed impossible, even after I aided through it and set up a TR. I'd rank this among the hardest 5.10's I've encountered in the Valley.
By Karsten Duncan
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 24, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Definately a stout valley testpiece. Some tubing technique is necessary to keep this thing in the sub .11 category. Impeccible rock, great protection, and interesting moves make this a classic.
By Lou Hibbard
From: Eagan, MN
Dec 4, 2012

Experiment with which side is "in". I found one side "in" easier than the other way for most of the climb - almost a no hands rest in places. May not want same side "in" the whole climb.
By Austin Archer
From: Bishop, Ca.
Aug 27, 2013

Yowee! Super stout and fun.
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Mar 29, 2014

We instantly thought of P2 of Thin Ice when we saw this. It's pretty dang similar but a bit easier I thought. If you want more specific in beta, try straight in at first, then left side and a corner knee bar with your right leg (opposite the photo). Worked good for me. Awesome pitch, the rock is just remarkable
By david s wilson
Apr 13, 2014

This stout route could easily have an 11b rating, but is an excellent sandbag at 10d
By Vlad S
Nov 17, 2014

I jammed it more or less straight in except for the first few feet and definitely thought that the name of the climb is very fitting. Surprisingly not awkward at all. It only briefly opens up to a tight #2 camalot size, but about half of the pitch is #1 camalot size and the bottom is even thinner. Definitely tough for the grade, but hard to justify an upgrade since there are lots of other 10d cracks in the valley that feel like 5.11 as well. The approach SUCKS.
By Mei
Apr 19, 2016

It probably depends on the season, but at the time of this post, when you traverse the ledge to reach the climb, you end up brushing by/hugging a couple of bushes on the ledge. I got ants all over me, and they do bite. Yuck! Thankfully, once you are done climbing, you can rappel all the way to the ground with a 60m rope (watch the ends). Small hands have advantage on this climb.
By Buddin
Mar 24, 2017

Crux is short but really fun climb. It's not as awkward as everyone makes it out to be. Straight-in fingers and thin hands with glory face feet right where you want them. Soft for down canyon 10d.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About