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Crakoukass 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 8 pitches, 550', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Balmat/Manrard/Meot July 2000
Season: Summer/Fall
Page Views: 991
Submitted By: Seleucus on Jul 18, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: The route from the trail up from the intermediate ...

Description 

The route follows a series of Gneiss gendarmes to the top of the ridge near the Col de Brevent.

Pitch 1 (5.9): Climb up thin face moves before moving to the left onto slabbier terrain.

Pitch 2 (5.7): Straightforward climbing to the next relay.

Pitch 3 (5.7): This excellent pitch starts with enjoyable stemming in a corner system before passing behind (and up) a small gendarme. From the gendarme step out over space to another larger gendarme and belay on top.

Rock Climbing Photo: the step between gendarmes right before R3.
the step between gendarmes right before R3.


Rappel: From the top of R3, rappel 10m to the bottom of a gully.

Pitch 5 (5.8): An enjoyable pitch. Traverse over grassy ledges and downclimb slightly before setting up a belay at the base of the top gendarme. It is possible to bypass pitch 6 by exiting to the left after this pitch.

Pitch 6 (5.10 or A0): Move up the steep face before belaying from the top.

Pitch 6 Alternate (5.9): Instead of moving up the steep face, move left before pulling one hard move (5.9) and going up a corner to the belay.

Linking: Hike for about one hundred meters to the base of the right gendarme.

Pitch 7 (5.8): Follow interesting face climbing up to the next relay.

Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from R7
Looking down from R7


Pitch 8 (5.6): Easy climbing leads to the summit of the right gendarme.

Linking Hike: Walk down the couloir to the base of the left gendarme.

Pitch 9 (5.8): Climb the left gendarme.

Rock Climbing Photo: Atop of the left gendarme with the right gendarme ...
Atop of the left gendarme with the right gendarme in the background.


Descent: Walk of the backside to the Col de Brevent.

Location 

From Planpraz, follow the track to Brevent (about 40 min) until the route is visible to the right. Leave the track for about 30 meters to the base of the climb.

From Brevent, follow the path to Planpraz for about 20 min until the route is visible on the left. Leave the track and go up about 30 meters to the base of the climb.

Protection 

Fully bolted - 12 points maximum per pitch.


Photos of Crakoukass Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The route from the trail down from the upper Breve...
BETA PHOTO: The route from the trail down from the upper Breve...
Rock Climbing Photo: Atop of the left gendarme with the right gendarme ...
Atop of the left gendarme with the right gendarme ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from R7
Looking down from R7
Rock Climbing Photo: the step between gendarmes right before R3.
the step between gendarmes right before R3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo for Crakoukass.  Make using Beta Photo Creato...
BETA PHOTO: Topo for Crakoukass. Make using Beta Photo Creato...

Comments on Crakoukass Add Comment
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By Jordan K
From: Ohio
Aug 9, 2015

This route is extremely well bolted (almost ridiculously so!) and is moderately fun. I was disappointed however in how broken up the pitches are, and how short they are. The combination of short pitches and walks between some of the pitches took away the fun of multi-pitch climbing for me.
Still, good fun climbing. There is also a slightly easier variation on the first pitch, which starts on the climbers left a few feet around the arete.
I also wonder how much of this route could in fact be protect on trad gear -- it seemed like it could have gone cleanly on gear for most of it! There were tons of opportunities to place gear in cracks, and so perhaps this would be a fun route for the beginning trad leader to practice placing gear, with abundant bolts available to bolster confidence!

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