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Craig's Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 6,197
Submitted By: mschlocker on Dec 14, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (64)
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Me on Craig's Crack.

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Probably the most jammable crack at The Gorge. Great hand jams on sticky rock all the way up. The top gets a little wide, but not too bad. I would liken it to an easier version of The Robbins Crack. It is slightly longer than Robbins too! Would be an area gang-roped classic if its location were more obvious.

There are at least two other climbs on the same rope for a TR. Make sure your rope does not get pinched in the top of the crack like another's has. There was a bee hive near here not long ago, watch out for them.

Location 

At the top of the hill. Really it's own area. Head uphill past Monkey Dance and Standard Deviation. This is just right of Turkey Chute and you will end up passing the top of this climb. Head to the top of the hill to a pinnacle with an obvious hand crack. You can see this pinnacle on the skyline from the road.

Protection 

~Medium cams

Gear anchor, walk off back.


Photos of Craig's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jordan working his jam in Craig's Crack 5.8
Jordan working his jam in Craig's Crack 5.8
Rock Climbing Photo: If you're at Mission Grease, hit this up.  Hike up...
BETA PHOTO: If you're at Mission Grease, hit this up. Hike up...
Rock Climbing Photo: Scouting anchor options on the back side of Craig'...
BETA PHOTO: Scouting anchor options on the back side of Craig'...
Rock Climbing Photo: sinker jams
sinker jams
Rock Climbing Photo: high balling/soloing?  photo @cameronsmith
high balling/soloing? photo @cameronsmith
Rock Climbing Photo: best rock in the gourge
best rock in the gourge
Rock Climbing Photo: Craig's Crack - Mission Gorge
Craig's Crack - Mission Gorge

Comments on Craig's Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 6, 2016
By Kyle Wills
From: Chicago, IL
Feb 12, 2010

Can't believe this doesnt even see enough traffic to warrant a photo, definitely snapped one just for the page. Great climb, the business is pretty much off the deck and stays fun throughout.
By Jonathan Bent
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 14, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

To be fair, this crack is somewhere in the 25 to 30 foot range. Good jams.

In retrospect, you may want to consider that the large chunk of rock that separates the two cracks at the top from each other may be less secure than it looks from the bottom. Consider setting anchor slightly farther back in the right hand crack.
By yosenhuttle
Mar 19, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I agree with Jonathan, avoid using the block at the top, it moves and isn't sufficiently large enough for an anchor. I really wanted to like this climb and the jams are sweet, but it is pretty short... Fun handcrack nevertheless
By Hoag Hoag
From: Littleton, CO
Jun 11, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

If this route was 2 to 3 times as long there would be a line to climb it. The rock is excellent and the crack is perfect hands. The anchor is a bit tricky to build but some long webbing and a few stoppers or hexes does the trick.
By sdrockstar81
From: el cajon, CA
Oct 21, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great climb! I think I will try to solo it next try. #.3-#2 BD C4's If I remember correctly... You can walk off the back but if you set up a top rope I reccomend bringing a med sized hex to slot through the boulders in the back, run a sling or two to the position you want. Worked perfect for me and my partner. Really nice climbing.
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Dec 23, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

One of the better cracks at the gorge in the beautiful orange friction rock. Maybe it would have four stars it it was twice as long.
By Andrew G
Feb 25, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great line, great jams. I'm not a particularly strong crack climber, but I had no problem sending Craig's Crack. Plenty of micro-ledges to the left make for good feet. Although the route is sadly short, it's worth the trek up. Amazing views for an added bonus.

A #3 C4 is nice for the top, otherwise you can sew it up nicely with 0.75-2
By Jason Kim
From: Encinitas, CA
Mar 11, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Excellent climb, a shame it's so short. Definitely worth the hike, though. Easy to protect, too.
By Adam T.
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 12, 2014

Anyone know the name of the face climb just to the right of Craig's Crack? I think it was a 10a or b. Very fun route also.
By wing thing
Apr 6, 2015

Adam T.
Jun 12, 2014
Anyone know the name of the face climb just to the right of Craig's Crack? I think it was a 10a or b. Very fun route also.


Facial Tissue 5.10b
By Jer Om
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 6, 2016
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

We decided to toprope it but definitely can be lead. I set up an anchor with two passive pro on the top of the rock and a sling around the boulder behind it.

It's a bit of a rough scramble up to the crack but once you approach it, it's obvious which one it is from the photos on MP. It's past a bunch of routes so just keep on pressing until you feel you're almost at the top.

Rock Climbing Photo: Jamming it on Craig's Crack
Jamming it on Craig's Crack


Great hand and foot jams. Must do for beginner crack climbers in the area.

Rock Climbing Photo: Scrambling up to routes in the upper limbo area
Scrambling up to routes in the upper limbo area

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