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Crag of Fear

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birthday Boy TR 
Buckets Stop Here, The S,TR 
Burnin' Rubber S 
Guano a Guano T,TR 
Mocha T,TR 
Smokin' Joints S,TR 
Tibble TR 
Tiptoe Through The Two Lips S,TR 
Unemployment Line S 
Who's Nailin' Palin S,TR 

Crag of Fear Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 9,000'
Location: 40.32382, -105.53482 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,587
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 6, 2011
Forecast:
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Kira, 5' 2 1/2" and fighting for the holds.

Description 

This is the upper crag that abuts the Lily Mountain trail at ~3/4 mile from the trailhead. It is a good crag for kids and families; however, the smallest of kids may not be able to climb the bolted lines.

The rock here is reminiscent somewhat of that found in the Ironclads at Mt. Boner and Ironsides.

The routes here are short, 45' at most.

These routes get morning and midday sun. Despite the altitude, they can cook.

There is certainly room for additional development as more recent routes noted on its northern side of the east face; however, it would be prudent to minimize development with proximity to the trail.

Thank you, Rich, for helping update the information!

Getting There 

There are 2 approaches to these crags:

A. The most straightforward is to park at the Lily Mt trailhead which lies on CO 7 just north of Lily Lake and south of Estes Park. The parking is roadside. The hike is largely flat for ~3/4 mile. Just after a S-shaped set of switchbacks and then a Z-shaped set of switchbacks, the uphill-most cliff appears just feet away from the trail.

B. The other approach involves following a faint trail or slight bushwhacking along a section that was cleared for fire mitigation. Park shortly after mile marker 5. There are 2 small pullouts. The first is on the east side of the road. The second (smaller) is on the west side. Hike up shortly west of the east parking pullout just past a yellow left curve sign. If you get to a rockcut, you've gone too far south. Hike up perhaps 300 vertical feet to the crags. You will see My Grain Headache as you get closer.

L->R: 

South face

A. Tibble, 10, 1p. 35', TR.

East face

B. Unemployment Line, 8 PG-13 - 9, 1p, 35', bolts.
C. Tiptoe Through The Two Lips, 9, 1p, 40', bolts.
D. Guano a Guano, 6, 1p, 45', gear.
E. Who's Nailin' Palin, 7-8, 1p, 45', bolts or TR.
F. The Buckets Stop Here, 10- - 10, 1p, 40', bolts or TR.
G. Burnin' Rubber, 10, 1p, 40', bolts.
H. Birthday Boy, 10, 1p, 40', TR.
IJ. Smokin’ Joints, 10, 1p, bolts or TR.
J. Mocha, 9+ PG-13, 1p, 40', gear.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.2 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',5],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Crag of Fear
Rock Climbing Photo: Deb smokin' up the route.

Smokin' Joints 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  Colorado : Estes Park Valley : ... : Crag of Fear
This is a nice, little sport climb on the right end of the east face of Crag of Fear.Start on thin, somewhat fragile feeling edges on a vertical face. The holds pull you slightly right of the bolt line. Gain the ledge 2/3's the way up. Follow holds slightly right of the bolts at the top as it merges with Mocha....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Crag of Fear Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper crag, looking NE from near trail.  Leo is at...
Upper crag, looking NE from near trail. Leo is at...
Rock Climbing Photo: Left side.  Photo: Rich Perch.
Left side. Photo: Rich Perch.
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper crag.
The upper crag.
Rock Climbing Photo: Crag of Fear right.  Photo courtesy of Rich Perch.
Crag of Fear right. Photo courtesy of Rich Perch.

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