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The Watchman
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Cradle to Grave 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c C2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 10 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c C2 [details]
FA: Dave Jones & Brian Smoot, 2004 FFA Steffan Gregory & Alan Thorne (5.11+)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,211
Submitted By: bsmoot on Feb 6, 2009

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Dave (the boss) at the top...the final few feet of...

Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Cradle to Grave starts with 3 excellent chimney/offwidth pitches on great rock. One squeeze section was so narrow I had to take my harness off to get through. It's also possible to avoid this section by climbing the offwidth out side of the chimney. 3 more pitches, including a 35' section of clean aid, lead to an excellent, exposed crack, leading to the summit.

Location 

See photo topo under "Watchman"

Protection 

2-3 sets cams with a few big sizes including the largest camalot. 1 set R.P.'s


Photos of Cradle to Grave Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: updated topo pg2
updated topo pg2
Rock Climbing Photo: updated topo
updated topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying the top of the corner, looking at the C2 ...
Belaying the top of the corner, looking at the C2 ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Alan on the 11a OW
Alan on the 11a OW
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo
BETA PHOTO: Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 9 on the beautiful upper crack.
Pitch 9 on the beautiful upper crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 6...stalling below an offwidth.
Pitch 6...stalling below an offwidth.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 7...the corner above, and to my right is pit...
Pitch 7...the corner above, and to my right is pit...
Rock Climbing Photo: leading pitch 4...this was the squeeze where I had...
leading pitch 4...this was the squeeze where I had...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2, about to enter the chimney on the right.
Pitch 2, about to enter the chimney on the right.
Rock Climbing Photo: Following pitch 3
Following pitch 3

Comments on Cradle to Grave Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sgreg
Apr 28, 2017

Jones and Smoot found a fun one!

Alan Thorne and I freed the C2 section at 11+ R, this pitch was red pointed.

Brain Smoot's topo is very accurate and much neater then mine. I drew up one with updated belay info. Found all rope lengths to be on. I just wanted to add optional, additional gear belay's to avoid one bolt anchors as well as stances to limit rope drag. A great Zion adventure route. The OW's were fun and well protected. At least one #6 for myself was mandatory, though two would be placed all day. Dave and Brain are animals! well done boys!

The crux corner was very fun and a bomber red ball nut could be placed to minimize the R rating( if you believe in free climbing over those in the desert.) It was a nice piece for the "thin pro" indication on the pitch above the crux.


Rock Climbing Photo: updated topo
updated topo


Rock Climbing Photo: updated topo pg2
updated topo pg2


Steffan

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