Type: Sport, 3 pitches
FA: Dan Hare, Fred Knapp, Rob Stanley
Page Views: 2,577 total · 10/month
Shared By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Feb 17, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

I have not climbed the whole route, (there are a total of three pitches) but the first pitch is great romp!

P1. A wolf in sheep's clothing, this is the bolted line just left of "A Little Insecure" and is described in the text but not shown on Rossiter's topo of the rock. I had gone up to do "Crash Test Blondes" and wanted to do a warm-up first. I saw this bolted line up what appears to be a low angle slab and pre-judged it to be in the 5.8-9 range. 6 clips later and a real good pump, I had changed my mind to at least 11b/c!. I never even knew what I had gotten on till a few days later when I finally read the route description in the book. I thought this route was technically harder than "Blondes", with great edging and a devious high-step crux on excellent rock!

P2. 2 5.10 cruxes. 10.

P3. According to S. Kimball, the last crux is on loose flakes. According to J. Collins, you can combing P2 & P3 in 90'. 9+.

Protection Suggest change

6 draws plus anchors for 1st pitch.

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