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Crackhead Anonymous 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Simpson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 119
Submitted By: mikeerocks on Apr 2, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Crackhead Anonymous

Description 

When I first found this route I was instantly inspired, it was a roadside crack, why had it not been climbed before? Then the cleaning started, and when I was finished was impressed to find a route that has some serious potential.
start by climbing in obvious crack next to a bolt, skip these next few bolts until you reach the top of the ledge...this is where the fun begins,either stick clip this bolt or be ready to take a fall if you dont stick the first move correctly. After the first bolt cruise way through as you start plugin gear for the next 70 ft. small holds, some crack climbing stemming and one awesome layback get you to the last bolt. Be ready here because the style of the climb changes quick, the anchor is guarded by a hidden hold that will ruin your onsight!

Location 

starts on top of the broken ledge 20ft up, just left of the bolted route

Protection 

medium to small nuts, #.1-#1 blackdiamond(1 of each)
4QD, 2 longrunners


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Rock Climbing Photo: Mikee keeping a cool head
Mikee keeping a cool head

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