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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Lawrence, Dave Mashburn (1967)
Page Views: 5,910
Submitted By: Coz Teplitz on Mar 1, 2007

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View towards the Chimneys from the first belay sta...

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A Table Rock classic that roasts in the sun on the south face. The bombay chimney on the last pitch is a delightful squirm.

This is the obvious corner/crack/chimney system that splits the south face of Table Rock.

Start: Beneath the obvious corner system. There is often a cheater stack at the base to help folks through the hard first move.

P1: Make a hard high step (perhaps the crux of the route), then wander up the crack in the corner to below the big roof (older anchor below roof). Exit right (5.7) through steep ground on good holds and belay above. NOTE: If you don't want to bring big cams (4" or so) to belay in the main crack, there is a stance up and right on a block. The pro for this second anchor is good but tricky to find.) EDIT: Apparently there are bolts here now. Who knows how long they will last.

P2: Move up the widening crack. Navigate a bulge (great hand jams in the back) and pull into an alcove atop a chockstone in the chimney (possible belay). Squirm up the chimney above.


This is the obvious corner/crack/chimney system that splits the south face of Table Rock. It is visible from the parking lot.

Approach by hiking the TR summit trail a few hundred yards until the East Face climber's trail cuts right. Go ~200 feet along the East face trail, then look for a small trail heading uphill. Follow this small trail for ~100 yards.

The climb starts below the obvious corner. Look for a cheater stack that often helps folks through the challenging first move.


Nuts and cams to 3"; optional 4" piece for the belay atop P1.

Photos of Crackerjack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st pitch
BETA PHOTO: 1st pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: David Logan on belay, Chip Keenum following on Cra...
David Logan on belay, Chip Keenum following on Cra...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 3, 2017
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Oct 5, 2009

There are bolts atop P1 boulder now. I would say a 4" or 5" is mandatory for the offwidth start for P2.
By Peter Pitocchi
Sep 18, 2011

Big gear helpful. Chimney section short I think 5.7 with adequate pro. Take big gear and walk it up the 5.8 offwidth early on second pitch. By big I mean threes, fours, maybe a five. First few moves on p1 are not protected.
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Mar 13, 2012

All around Great Climb with a little bit of everything!!! First pitch has excellent face climbing with tons of pro. There are old bolt anchors under the main roof with bushes around it on the first pitch, but climb up and right through the juggy roof section to arrive a'top a massive boulder with brand spanking new bolt anchors under the beginning of the second pitch crack. Second pitch is super fun, a little spooky just because of the awkwardness of your body position. Big gear is helpful but you can totally find places for mid sized gear as well! Leave your backpack on the ground if you can because it makes this second pitch a pain to wear one!!
By brian k sohn
From: knoxville, tn
May 23, 2012

The first pitch can be top-roped with a 70 meter rope.
By Cody Bradford
From: Boone, NC
Jun 18, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

There are two options for the 2nd pitch chimney:
1. You can stay on the outside of the Chimney which is more featured and less awkward.
2. You may choose to romp it up inside the chimney where it is possible to place a 5 or 6 Camalot in the back. (You may want to take your helmet off for this option)
No need for anything larger than a number three on this one. Just slide it up the back of the crack as you move.
By Lee Kennedy
From: Raleigh, North Carolina
Apr 12, 2013

Anyone know if the 12a that breaks off to the left after P1 is still doable? It's in the guidebook, but I don't see it here. Called Helios I think?
By Jonathan Dull
From: Boone, NC
Sep 4, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a fantastic climb with sustained climbed throughout. Getting off the deck takes a little thinking and a spot may be in order. The climbing is pretty steep and I remember actually hanging off a perfect jam with 90+ feet below me! As previously mentioned continue up and right through the steep (and juggy) section and you will find the bolted belay just below the start of the 2nd pitch chimney/offwidth . I seconded the second pitch with a pack dangling between my legs, and it sucks!! Either leave the pack on the ground or try and grab the lead for 2nd pitch.
By Brian Payst
From: Carrboro,NC
Apr 28, 2014

We climbed this on 4/27/2014 and there is a basketball sized loose block at the exit moves near the top of the chimney on the 2nd pitch. Use caution as it's easy to grab it from below when reaching up for a jug. I was going to trundle it, but there were people in the area below. Fun route, but you want to be solid at the grade, we didn't use anything larger than a #3 Camalot.
By Curtis Baird
May 26, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route awesome! But it is NOT a beginner 5.8. This climb requires some off width and chimney climbing that is not common in Linville, especially Table Rock. The first pitch is pretty sustained and rope drag can be an issue. The first move off the ground is pretty hard. As for the second pitch, larger cams are not necessary if you don't mind running it out a lot. The first off width crack will take BD #3 and #2 and some larger hexes. I could not find anything in the upper chimney that would take a #3. Bring #4s and #5s for this section. The risk of falling is low if your comfortable with chimneys, but a slip could result in a huge fall with out larger cams for protection. Don't bring a backpack as it is hard enough with a rack of gear. In the chimney I got my helmet stuck so taking it off might have been the best option at that point. Overall it was an excellent climb very different from the Table Rock style. My first chimney climb and off width crack. I would recommend following P2 if you have not climbed this style before and to bring larger cams to protect the chimney. Definitely a classic in my book!
By Jcastleberry
May 16, 2016

Parking lot to parking lot in under 49 mins. Anyone under 30 mins?
By Benandstuff
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Apr 3, 2017

This route gets a lot of seepage after rain. Makes the roof section on P1 and the chimney section on P2 much more difficult.
By Russ Keane
Apr 3, 2017

Excellent climb! I'll call it an NC classic. It certainly stands proud as a unique type of adventure for the region. The move off the ground is not the hardest of the climb (hell no). The wide crack groveling and chimney contortions are way harder. It's full value 5.8. Enjoy the incredible belay position at the top of P1! Wow!!

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