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Cracked Egg 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: James Garrett and Connor Barton, 16 June 2009 FFA P1: Eric Salmi July 09 FFA entirety: Jonathan Knight Nov 09
New Route: Yes
Season: Anytime when dry
Page Views: 2,792
Submitted By: James Garrett on Jun 17, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Lance in the steep section of Cracked Egg. Photo-...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


This steep and wild line ascends the west side of The Egg. Tendon and joint complaints ruled me out for freeing it, but there is no question that someone soon will get a great free pump out of this unique climb. It will be interesting to hear the reports and it will probably yield more stars as a free climb. Equipped and cleaned on lead.

3rd class up a trench-like groove to the base of the route from the trail. Belay to the left of an overhang.

Pitch #1: Two bolts protect the initial slab climbing nice knobs to a crack which soon steepens below the flake. Layback up the overhanging fingers to hand crack to a 3 bolt belay. Beautiful! 5.11c 25m.

Pitch #2: Continue up and left now climbing steep well protected slab past 6 bolts to a two-bolt belay on top of The Egg. ?, 20m.

Rappel the route.


Walk up the newly revised and pleasant Egg trail. A gear belay was set up near the base of the route in a somewhat protected alcove.


QDs, Set of Nuts and Camalots to #3.

Photos of Cracked Egg Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lance climbing The Cracked Egg.   Photo: Clay Wats...
Lance climbing The Cracked Egg. Photo: Clay Wats...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking at the climb from the egg trail
Looking at the climb from the egg trail
Rock Climbing Photo: Sweet rest after pulling the crux
Sweet rest after pulling the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Lie back crux
Lie back crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Face moves to gain the crack
Face moves to gain the crack
Rock Climbing Photo: At the beginning of the 2nd pitch
At the beginning of the 2nd pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Cracked Egg on The Egg
Cracked Egg on The Egg

Comments on Cracked Egg Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 8, 2012
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 17, 2009

Sounds amazing. Hard to believe a line that sounds that good was overlooked for so long, but then you seem to be able to spot these things better than anyone else.
Can't wait to try it!
By James Garrett
Jun 17, 2009

You will note on the topo in the 1997 Ruckman Guide that it was simply written off as "rotten". Climbers back then didn't carry as often wire brushes, hand saws, and crowbars; now seemingly common (and expected!) new school practices...which is a good thing.
By James Garrett
Jun 17, 2009

Any info on the route starting 15m below and to the right (Around the corner from all of the known Egg routes), starts with a few bolts up the arete and then? Abandoned? Run out to the top? Good rock for sure
By Fett
Jul 18, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I have been working the 1st pitch once a week for the past 5 weeks. Today was my 5th day on the route and finally broke threw the crux. The crux for me was getting threw the finger locks and lie backs to the fist jams, I think its about 11. Saw snakes almost every day i went up there (Ski pole help). Besides the snakes this was a sweet climb to work on. I did a lot of scrubbing with a nut tool and took off some loose holds, its looking pretty clean now. Tried the second pitch today and got shut down. The first pitch is sweet, go do it! I would like to see what others think of the grade. Thnx James!
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 31, 2009

James will you stop being such a dong? There are 100s of quality lines to get after and this is the reason peeps are not "flocking" to your future classic. Chasing FAs is not everyone's thing man. Offer a damn 6 pack already, maybe it will lure someone there.
By Fett
Nov 6, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

James, I haven't gone back yet to try the second pitch, its still on the list. Don't know where the dong thing came from, seems like someone should take this route off the todo list LOL! Hope the Unichopper doesn't get to this one! Just looking for opinions on the climbing and grade, glad to hear your friend liked it James.
By jonathan knight
Nov 12, 2009

Super fun route, James. Clipped all but the last bolt, and climbed all free it in one 140'? pitch. Did you place that old bong towards the end of the first pitch or was it there already?
By James Garrett
Nov 12, 2009

strong guys are hardcore...that's all I gotta say. I gotta do something with all those stacks of bongs I have at home. I don't climb in the Fishers much anymore....A Cam would definitely work, but I placed it the second time up as I didn't want to fiddle with it...all free, all! It;s gettin cold over here in Nepal...looking forward to sunny Wasatch/desert cragging.
By apross
Nov 12, 2009

Just a heads up to say you can rap from the top with a 70m.

Stay warm old fella.
By Ben Folsom
Nov 21, 2009

This is a nice route, thanks guys. We climbed it in one pitch as well.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Oct 30, 2011

Very fun route. Looks kind of chossy from the ground but it is quite good. Pumpy for sure. We only did the first pitch and I would say its mid 11, though I struggled more on Tick Fever than this one. Once you pull behind the horn its over as its hands and tight body squeeze action back there. The crack takes mid sized cams, nothing bigger than a #1 camalot. I compliment the FA's on the work and bolting efforts, though I am a bit puzzled why the 1st bolt and bong piton are present. Neither one seems necessary. Always happy to have another 11 crack climb in the canyon.
By John Steiger
May 27, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I'd peg this attractive line at solid 11c, particularly if done in one pitch (btw, this probably has been climbed free often enough that it warrants dropping the “A0” part of the consensus rating). The opening crack section borders on 3 stars, but it needs more ascents to get there. Same for the latter slab, which also could benefit from some re-engineering – climbing on crispy flakes past inconveniently placed bolts. Also, the oaks are coming back in crack just before the slab; consider bringing clippers.
By James Garrett
May 30, 2012

Yes, you may drop the A0, though it might need to get done by admin as I am not sure how to do it when I go to edit? Strong work John!
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 31, 2012

The A0 is only on the consensus grade, which is because a couple of folks rated it that in their tick. Nothing to be done unless you want to yell at those guys not to pull on gear anymore(kidding).
By John Steiger
Jun 8, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

No kudos for me, James, I just followed it (John F was on the sharp end). Keep those routes coming bro....

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