REI Community
Mystery Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cracked Code T 
Inversion Virgin T 
Mystery Spire T 

Cracked Code 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Derek Field & Emma Lodes (2016)
New Route: Yes
Season: Sunny south face
Page Views: 252
Submitted By: Derek Field on Nov 24, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The jump-across finish. (Drone photo by Joey Tayl...

Description 

Cracked Code climbs the main right-leaning crack system splitting the south face of Mystery Spire.

Pitch 1: Start by bouldering up to a small ledge and take the thin finger crack that curves left into a wacky offwidth pod about 20' off the ground. Above the pod, continue up the main right-leaning ramp through various crack sizes, passing a fixed black metolius cam. Right below the anchor ledge, a band of lighter-colored sandstone presents a fun layback or stemming sequence - your choice! Belay from two-bolt chain anchor on big comfy ledge. (5.10, 85 feet)

Pitch 2: Avoid the sketchy wideness by climbing the sporty face to the right, pulling over a rooflet on limestone horns into a low-angle finger crack, then over some cartoon jugs and eventually to a clean offwidth that takes a bumped #5 cam nicely. After birthing yourself from the offwidth, you have two options for reaching the anchor tree, which is found on the southwest (tallest) summit.
1. Tiptoe traverse: Stem up easy ground between the two spires before committing to the left one, traversing 15 feet (5.5 R) to a slung tree.
2. Jump-across: Climb the right-hand spire (5.7 R) and then jump across the small but exciting gap to the left one. Turn left and downclimb a few feet to a slung tree.
Beautiful, solid rock on this pitch. (5.10, 75 feet)

Location 

Obvious right-leaning crack splitting the south face of Mystery Spire.

Protection 

Single rack of cams from TCU to new #5 camalot
Single set of nuts

Rappel route with single 60m rope.


Photos of Cracked Code Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cracked Code is the obvious right-leaning crack sy...
Cracked Code is the obvious right-leaning crack sy...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cracked Code topo
BETA PHOTO: Cracked Code topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading the offwidth on P2.  (Drone photo by Joey ...
Leading the offwidth on P2. (Drone photo by Joey ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Emma stemming through the final part of P1 on the ...
Emma stemming through the final part of P1 on the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 first ascent, November 2016.
P1 first ascent, November 2016.
Rock Climbing Photo: Just above the P2 crux on the first ascent.
Just above the P2 crux on the first ascent.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down upper part of P1.
Looking down upper part of P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the second pitch. Belay ledge in sun,...
Looking down the second pitch. Belay ledge in sun,...

Comments on Cracked Code Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Lundeen
From: Lee Vining, CA
Nov 26, 2016

Way to go, Derek! Got another addition to Boynton... Look forward to climbing this one.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About