REI Community
Cracked Canyon

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Arete TR 
Algebra T 
Attica T 
Bat Splat T 
Beginner's Luck T 
Bones T 
Cello T 
Chewbacca T 
Chip Off T 
Come On Sun T 
Crack of Mind T 
Dog Leg T 
Easy Money T 
Exodus T 
First Step T 
Fool's Grasp T 
Free Box T 
Froggy Bottoms T 
Genesis T 
Icy Fingers T 
Javelin T 
Lago T 
Limey Peel T 
Margin T 
Orange Peel T 
Othello T 
Pirouette T 
Reptilicus (The Crock) T 
Roller Skates T 
Round The Corner T 
Salvation T 
Secrets Of Nature T 
Summertime T 
Superfresh T 
Teacher's Pet T,TR 
Third Grade T,TR 
Thor T 
Tick Fever T,S 
Tobacco Road T 
Where Eagles Dare T 
Where The WIld Things Are T 

Cracked Canyon Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.8605, -107.86263 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 18,357
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Guy H. on Nov 27, 2005  with updates from ChossRanger
Forecast:
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The view from Cracked Canyon....

Description 

Cracked Canyon is the place to go for a high concentration of quality routes. There is a good selection of routes in the 5.6 to 5.11 range. Out of the 80 routes in the canyon, there are classic routes at every grade. Pirouette, 5.7; Chewbacca, 5.8; Summertime, 5.9+; Orange Peel, 5.10; Javelin, 5.11.... Most of the routes are around 80 feet long. Pick up a copy of Telluride Rocks at a local climbing shop for route descriptions and maps.

Getting There 

Park 100 yards past the Post Office and find a climbers trail that leads to the talus. Follow the talus up the steep slope towards the obvious canyon to the right of the main wall. Be careful on the loose rock in the canyon, it is probably best to leave Spot at home.

L->R: 

Left/West Side

A. Squeeze, 8.
B. Chip Off, 9 PG-13, 1p, 100', gear.
C. Lago, 8, 1p, 100', gear.
D. Othello, 10-, 1p, 80', gear.
E. First Step, 10, 1p, 80', gear.
F. Cello, 10+, 1p, 80', gear.
G. Javelin, 11-, 1p, 65', gear.
H. Secrets Of Nature, 13-, 1p, 65', gear.
I. Reptillicus, 10+, 1p, 120', gear.
J. Where Eagles Dare, 11+, 1p, 90', gear.
K. Synchronicity, 11+.
L. Bluegrass, 8.
M. Jester, 12.
N. Fool's Grasp, 9+, 1p, 60', gear.
O. Stinky Feet, 10.
P. The Czech Route.
Q. Left in Stitches, 11.
R. Up On Cotner, 10+.
S. The Thin Edge, 10.
T. Weekend On Mars, 10+.
U. Freebox, 10, 1p, 80', gear.
V. Salvation, 11 PG-13, 1p, 75', gear.
W. Where The Wild Things Are, 9, 1p, 200', gear.
X. Detour, 8.
Y. Limey Peel, 9, 1p, gear.
Z. Icy Fingers, 8, 1p, 80', gear.
AA. Marlboro Man, 11 R.
BB. Tobacco Road, 9 PG-13, 1p, 80', gear.
CC. Cody's Crank, 10.
DD. String of Diamonds, 10.
EE. Nid D'Oiseaux, 9.
FF. Orange Peel, 10, 1p, 80', gear.
GG. Fresh Squeezed, 10.
above FF. Black Magic, 10.
HH. Cenotaph Corner, 10 X.
II. Va Va Voom, 11.
JJ. I'm Not Your Mother, 9.
KK. My Darling Brunette, 10+.
LL. Bad Boys Get Spanked, 10.
MM. Skipping Stones, 10+.
above NN. Arete Variation to Blood On The Cracks, 10.
NN. Blood On The Cracks, 10+.
OO. Fat Cat, 8.
PP. Tick Fever, 11+/12- PG-13, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
QQ. High Tide, 10.
RR. Summertime, 9+, 1p, 150', gear.
SS. Talisman, 11.

Right/East Side

A. It Gets Hard, 10 R. **
B. Jonny Be Good, 10. **
C. Power Lounger, 9. **
D. Susan's Arete, 10. **
E. Superfresh, 11-, 1p, 90', gear. **
F. Bat Splat 10+, PG-13, 1p, 90', gear.
G. Crack of Mind, 8, 1p, 80', gear.
H. Chewbacca, 8+, 1p, 90', gear.
I. Round The Corner, 7+, 1p, 90', gear.
J. Thor, 10, 1p, 90', gear.
K. Come On Sun, 10, 1p, 90', gear.
L. Dog Leg, 7, 1p, 90', gear.
M. Attica, 9, 1p, gear.
N. Bones, 7-8+, , 1p, 70', gear.
O. Roller Skates, 8, 1p, gear.
P. Chimney Sweep, 5.
Q. Froggy Bottoms, 7, 1p, 80', gear.
R. Repo Man, 10.
S. White Wall, 11.
T. White Book, 4.
U. Algebra, 6, 1p, 80', gear.
V. Entrance Exam, 3, 1p, 70', gear.
W. Fox Trot, 3.
X. Pirouette, 7.
Y. Where Are Your Friends, 10+ X.
Z. Air Arete, 10 X, 1p, 70', TR or headpoint.
AA. Sizzler, 11.
BB. Breakfast of Champions, 6.
CC. Tintinabulation, 5 R.
DD. Teacher's Pet, 8 PG-13, 1p, 70', gear or TR.
EE. Third Grade, 8 R, 1p, 70', gear or TR.
FF. Beginner's Luck, 6, 1p, 60', gear.
GG. Exodus, 7, 1p, 70', gear.
HH. Genesis, 4, 1p, 60', gear.
II. Margin, 4, 1p, 80', gear.
JJ. Easy Money, 6, 1p, 80', gear.

Outside and Right of the canyon

A. Boulder Climb, 10+.
B. Natives Are Restless, 11-.
C. Ophir Drum, 10+.
D. Say What?, 11.

Thanks to Dave Chew for help in organizing this area!

  • * = may have fallen off!

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.2 miles from here

41 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',4],['5.8',9],['5.9',7],['5.10',11],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Cracked Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Cracked Canyon:
Margin   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Beginner's Luck   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Easy Money   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Pirouette   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Chewbacca   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Lago   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Orange Peel   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Air Arete   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X     TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Free Box   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Cello   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Javelin   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   
Tick Fever   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Where Eagles Dare   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Cracked Canyon

Featured Route For Cracked Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Svilar sets up a toprope on Chewbacca (in the...

Chewbacca 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Colorado : Telluride/Norwood area : ... : Cracked Canyon
This is classic 5.8 - it is a beautiful, left-facing corner a few hundred feet up from the mouth of the canyon on the right hand side directly across from Orange Peel.Climb the obvious corner via both face and crack. There is an awkward section down low, but many consider the roof up high to be the crux. There are bolts on top that can be used to belay your second up, but the descent is from a tree about 15 feet to the right. You will be rapping over Dog Leg and [[Come ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Cracked Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ophir Wall and Cracked Canyon on the right in the ...
Ophir Wall and Cracked Canyon on the right in the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: West side of southen end of Cracked Canyon.
BETA PHOTO: West side of southen end of Cracked Canyon.
Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful wall. Beautiful view!!
Beautiful wall. Beautiful view!!
Rock Climbing Photo: The wrong way to spend your time in Cracked Canyon...
The wrong way to spend your time in Cracked Canyon...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wishing for a breeze in the C.C.!
Wishing for a breeze in the C.C.!
Rock Climbing Photo: Emily rappelling at Crack Canyon, 9-2009.
Emily rappelling at Crack Canyon, 9-2009.

Comments on Cracked Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Victor McConnell
From: Golden, CO
Oct 20, 2007
One of Colorado's hidden gems for sure - both the Ophir Wall and Cracked Canyon....
By JoshOrin
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 12, 2010
There has been significant rock-fall relatively recently where It Gets Harder, Johnny Be Good, Power Lounger, and Susan's Arete are/used to be. A 30' column has exfoliated from the wall negating some or all of the above routes. The rock-fall appears to have happened within the past few years as there is still dead brush among the debris. I noticed this yesterday while approaching Superfresh during my first visit to the area. This event is very concerning since it would have proven fatal for anyone in the area while the rock fall occurred. Please be aware of this when in the area as part of the column still stands and could be unstable, especially the freeze/thaw months.
By S.Mckinna
From: Cañon City, CO
May 19, 2014
There have been terrible accidents in cracked canyon involving rockfall. One of which severed a lady's leg above the knee! Be very cautious of people above you (and below) in the canyon and on the rim of the canyon. It would be an absolute nightmare to try to evacuate a person to the road below. Climb safely in this amazing place.
By susanmol
Aug 4, 2014
CAUTION: Dangerous rockfall from above occurred directly across from Pirouette on 8/3/14 at approx. 1pm, unknown cause. Long winter, wet weather, fatter than usual chipmunks, who knows. Small to engine-size blocks shot off the cliff wall hitting the gully and opposite side for 10 seconds. Thankfully no one was hurt. Either a direct hit or rock shrapnel sliced through 70% of a rope hanging on Algebra.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rope cut by rockfall.
Rope cut by rockfall.

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