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Routes in Crackland
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[Redacted] T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Alaska Girls Do Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bring Your Dancing Shoes S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Crack in The Simulation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crackland T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Hippy Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Iraqy Cracky T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rude Girls S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wavey Gravey S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,956 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | TobinPetty on May 31, 2008 |
| Admins: | L. Von Dommelheimer |
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Description
This route requires gear and sports 2 bolts at about 1/2 way height. This route is one of the best that I've climbed in the Interior. The bottom section is run out and the first of the bolts is approx. 20 feet out so be aware if you lead from the ground up. Excellent combination of crimpers and sideway pulls, face climbing and two small roofs make this climb consistently serious. I would say the distinct crux is the pair of roofs below the anchors. Make sure to tape up for pulling the roofs as the rock is unrelentingly sharp!
Location
This climb is easily identified by the 2 shiny bolts about 1/2 way up and the two roofs directly above.
Protection
Small to med gear (cams for the roofs) and a couple of draws for the sport section should be helpful. There are two excellent bolts with links for the anchors. Anchor can be accessed from the top of climb. Find a small Spruce with webbing at the top and you can safely belay partner to anchor point. Route can be Tr'ed.
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