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69.5 Crack T 
Corner T,TR 
Crack T,TR 
D's Dry Dream S 
Death of Innocents (aka Chick Filet) S 
Don't Pout 'Cause Yer Down 'n Out T 
Don't Pout Climb Up and Out T 
Drinking Wine with the Chinese (aka The Jizzler) T,TR 
Hate Hate (aka Whiskey Run) S 
Henry Spies the Line S,TR 
High Plains Whimper S,TR 
Ian and Pat Spy Yet Another Easy Line T 
Ian Murders Another Route T 
Kevin Spies the Line S,TR 
Kevin's Trad Line T 
Let's Wake up Ronnie and Barb T 
Lying on the Ground S 
Mind Mantel Arete S 
Moment of Weakness S 
Pigeon Pile Pinnacle S 
Redrum T,TR 
Risky One (aka Best Route EVER!) S 
Sleeper T 
Table Top T 
Umph T 
Unknown at TT Area S 
When In Doubt T,TR 

Crack 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Dan Hare, Tom Kohlmann?
Page Views: 177
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Dec 5, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: A good view of the route.

Description 

This is an obvious line to the right of Mind Mantel Arete that draws the eye of those who seek routes to keep one climbing newer terrain. Interestingly, someone, perhaps Dan or Tom, got to it first and added an anchor for your convenience. Good crack technique makes this easier than 5.9.

The start involves a few moves with trickier gear placement as one spot is too tight for a #2 Camalot and the next tends to umbrella out a #0.75 Camalot. A key footjam or two can make the next section more secure. Some may complain that the #2 Camalot spot squeezes out a handjam, but you can do both. At the mini-roof, you have choices. Going left gets you a big ledge, but pro gets scarce for a bit. Face climbing more directly over the mini-roof appears less probable but is no harder. Forcing oneself right may be more awkward. Gain the next ledge. An okay #1 Camalot can be placed below the fractured plate. A yellow Alien helps protect the final bit to the two bolt anchor with links.

Location 

This is to the right of Mind Mantel Arete and left of High Plains Whimper going up a right-leaning crack.

Protection 

A rack that worked: #0.75, #3.5 (old size), #3, #2, tiny cam?, #1, yellow Alien, and a two bolt anchor with links.

Bee Alert 

Per cjohns716: there is a bee hive just to the right of the route halfway up.


Photos of Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug just below the left foot jam.
Doug just below the left foot jam.

Comments on Crack Add Comment
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Jan 6, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

The hand jams end where I think the crux is, and the face holds are small. It's not a bad route, but there are better nearby. It is nice that it has a bolt anchor.
By cjohns716
From: Boulder, CO
May 2, 2017

Be aware, there is a bee's nest to the right of this route, about halfway up, in the deep crack.

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