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Wizard Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Christal Ball S 
Crack T 
Driven Like the Snow T 
Magic Wand S 
Right Arete T 
Ruff T,TR 
Snow Crash S 
Two in the Bush T,TR 
Uncertain Fates T 
Wave Yer Wand T 
Way of the Wizard S 
Wide Jadodat T 
Wizard Shuffle T,TR 

Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 84
Submitted By: Jay Eggleston on Jul 17, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: The upper part of the crack and the crux area.

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  • Description 

    This is an obvious crack between two established sport lines. The crux is about 3/4s of the way up. If you want it to end quickly, you can move to the left and clip the last bolt on Christal Ball before going to its anchor. If you want to make the climb longer, you can continue up on easy terrain to the anchors on Magic Wand to the right. This route is good to do if you want something easier than the nearby sport climbs or you want to top-rope the sport climbs.

    Location 

    This is the crack between Christal Ball and Magic Wand. It is a wide crack that is fairly obvious. You can get down using the anchors on either sport route next to it.

    Protection 

    A standard rack. I did not use anything bigger that a #3 Camalot. You can clip a bolt or two on either of the nearby sport climbs with a long sling. There are anchors on both sides of the crack. Magic Wand's anchors are higher.


    Photos of Crack Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The line is the crack to the right of the rope.
    BETA PHOTO: The line is the crack to the right of the rope.

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