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BETA PHOTO: The rope is hanging on the route.
This is a less interesting line that misses a star rating due to rounding and is submitted for completion purposes. There is a bolted anchor above, so it may have been climbed before, but it remains distinctly loose, dirty, and licheny in spots. There are some flexing flakes, too. This may appeal to the adventurous sorts.
This line is to the right of Rusty, Small Hole Hanger Route
and left of Chimney
. Start up on blocky terrain. There is a small, flexing flake on the right in here, so beware. It will be a bit challenging to get gear in this section. Stemming will bring you to the crack about at 3/5ths height. Jam the fingers widening to fists crack to the top. Move right to a two bolt anchor.
If you decide to do this and top rope it, a #3 or 3.5 Camalot may help for a directional at the top.
If you have a name or FA, let me know and I'll update the info.
It would be better to TR this from the 2 bolt anchor.
Dave gets to the crack feature above.
By Jay Eggleston
Mar 5, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I would think the anchor is for the chimney on the right. It would not have been hard to put an anchor directly above the route. I used a #4 Camalot as a top rope directional. I did not find the flexing flake.