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Grotto Right (West Side)
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666 S 
Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) T 
Buck Tooth (AKA Spearhead) S 
Class Act S 
Crack Wars (aka Crack Whores) T 
Crystal Clear Arête (a.k.a. UNA) S 
Dopesmoker S 
Happy Face (AKA Kitchen Sink) S 
In the Court of the Crimson King S 
Rickety Rock S 
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Sin after Sin S 
Tenable S 
Trailer Park Girls S 
Tweak Fuck  S,TR 
Unknown S 
Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates" S 
Untenable S 
Venarete S 
Where the Wild Things Aren't S 
Where the World Ends T,S 
Winter Capacity S 
Winter Warm-up T 
Woogie's Wild Ride S 

Crack Wars (aka Crack Whores) 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ken Sims
Page Views: 105
Submitted By: George Perkins on Mar 15, 2008

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Description 

Crack Wars or Whores has some interesting and good crack climbing on the right side of the Grotto, not to mention a clever/overused pun for a route name.

Climb up the flake (which is apparantly solid) on either the left or the right to a left-leaning slab section. The business district looms ahead. Lieback and stem your way up the crack directly above, with a couple of decent rests and good pro the whole way- except for a short section where there's wobbly flakes in the crack. Don't veer off right following a new bolt line- Ruffles Have Ridges. Some of the lieback sections are pretty strenuous, but there's always good pro- and look for handholds out left and footholds on the right wall here or there. Most of this section is in the 5.10- range.

Just before the top, you reach the offwidth crux of the route, where the character of the rock becomes more featured (unlike the smooth glossy rock below), yet the crack widens to a 5" slot and the face is slightly overhanging. Place big cams in the back, jam and move up, clip the chains.

Thanks to Tom Wezwick and Karl Kiser, there is a rappel anchor at the top.

Location 

Crack Whores is climb 20 in the online Diablo guide for this section (however, there are a few new bolted routes not shown in that guide).
It is the 2nd obvious crack to climb on the right side of the Grotto, after you enter it. Walk about 20' left of Class Act and Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) and up a slope to the a large flake, which is at the base of the route.

Protection 

Nuts, and cams up to a #4 camalot, and a #5 cam might be useful too. (You could probably get away with nothing bigger than a #3 camalot.)
A 2-bolt anchor at the top makes for an easy descent with a 50m rope.


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By Karl Kiser
Apr 4, 2008

Tom Wezwick and I put the anchor in, cleaned it and climbed it. Dennis Jackson, in RCNM (2006), says Ken Sims climbed this route first and called it Crack Wars.

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