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Crack to Chimney 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dan?
Page Views: 1,377
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 26, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Dave near the crux.


This is another squeezed in trad line between a couple bolted lines, Pack 'o Bobs and Wholly Holey. I'm confident it's been climbed, but it is not listed in the Haas guidebook.

Start as for either Pack 'o Bobs or Wholly Holey. If you like, you can clip the 1st bolt of Wholly Holey, I did. Then go up the crack on gear. The crux is probably at the top of the crack. Then, it continues up into chimney terrain. At the top of the chimney, you can make a reverse, mini-Fine Jade, P6 -like move around to the anchors of Wholly Holey.

Per Sean Riley: BEWARE! The "chimney" is actually a giant, detached block the size of a refrigerator. Do NOT chimney on it. This block now wobbles and will fall if pushed.


This lies between Pack 'o Bobs and Wholly Holey.


+/- 1 bolt, cams from orange Alien/#0.5 Camalot to #3 Camalot (doubles of #1), #4 BD wire, #12 BD wire, a few shoulder length slings.

Photos of Crack to Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the crack.
Looking down the crack.

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By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Jan 7, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I thought the crux of this was at the bottom at the small overhang. I clipped two bolts, both on Pack of Bobs, the first and second bolts. I thought it was easy to get to the Wholly Holey anchors.
By Sean Riley
From: Keystone, Colorado
May 25, 2015

The "chimney" is actually a giant detached block the size of a refrigerator. Do NOT chimney on it. This block now wobbles and will fall if pushed.

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