REI Community
Upper Walt's Rocks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1995 Budget Closure S 
At Your Pleasure T 
Crack Queen T 
Drag Queen T 
Mojave Queen T 
Route Beer T 
Upper Mojave T 
Where Were You? T 
White Rain T 

Crack Queen 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Walt Shipley
Page Views: 1,864
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Jan 21, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Richard Shore leading Crack Queen 5.11a


This is the obvious crack just right of Drag Queen. Powerful moves off the deck in a steep fingers / hand crack gain a pod. Awkward moves out of the pod lead to some nice fist jams to the top. Some loose rock but overall an excellent climb.


Primarily small to large cams (to 4.5") and stoppers are sufficient for pro. Small to Medium cams are required to build an anchor. Rappel off of the anchor for Drag Queen.

Photos of Crack Queen Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the full route
the full route
Rock Climbing Photo: view from the belay
view from the belay
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben arriving at the grovely narrow chimney/offwidt...
Ben arriving at the grovely narrow chimney/offwidt...
Rock Climbing Photo: Crack queen
BETA PHOTO: Crack queen

Comments on Crack Queen Add Comment
Show which comments
By Randy
Apr 22, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route will eventually be a 4/5 star classic (4 stars here). The moderate amount of loose stuff will quickly clean up once it sees a few more ascents. One of the better crack routes in Josh.
By Adam Kimmerly
Nov 8, 2006

Sustained, powerful, quality crack climbing on a long pitch that requires everything from finger jams to OW/squeeze chimney moves. Slightly detracted by a few chossy sections, but still a 4-star route. One of my favorite JTree cracks.
By fossana
From: leeds, ut
Jun 15, 2010

Walk-off option to the right (requires crawling through the small tunnel and topping out). For me the hand crack after the bulge was harder than the bulge, partly b/c it's slick with crumbly sections and partly b/c my non-finger crack technique leaves something to be desired.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About