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The RGC ( Roger Gagne Classic) T 
Crack of the World T 
Cross Eyed Owl T 
Open Spaces S 
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Owl's Highway  T 
Smitty's Sport Route S 

Crack of the World 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: David Quinn
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,113
Submitted By: M Sprague on Oct 30, 2011

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Yeah baby! Adam getting the on-sight

Description 

Standing at the base, below The Smoky Dike, look to the left and up high. On the skyline you will see a zigging handcrack up an arching flake. Get in the right spot and you can actually see right through it. Here is how you get there, because I know you want to:
Pitch 1 starts in the left facing, big corner to the left of Owl's Highway. Because the bottom is wet, head up the finger crack just left of it, which then arches over and brings you back to the corner. Continue up, clipping a couple bolts, get a shake and finish out through the steep slot to the shared bolted belay of RGC and Owl's Highway. 11c
Pitch 2 shares with The RGC. Head up the crack above the belay for about 10 -15 feet until you can do the long fun traverse right which gets you to flakes that take you up to the next bolted belay. Above you is the arching crack that from the ground made you want to climb it. 5.8
Pitch 3: Head up more flakes to gain the steep crack. It becomes wider and more pumpy as you go until it is rattly fist sized. As it starts to arch over to the right, reach up and left and pull your self over to the bolt belay. 11c
Pitch 4: Walk over the slab to the wall on the left. establish yourself on the wall (crux) and head up and left to a bolted belay at the top of the cliff. 10c

Getting down: Carefully rap, making use of the intervening bolted belays below. A single 60 m rope will get you down with a few stops.


Location 

Head left from the approach trail. From the flat topped block with the corner crack above that marks the start of "Owl's Highway", step down left around into a nice looking big left facing corner that is unfortunately usually wet and mossy at the bottom. To get around the wetness, the route starts up the finger crack just to the left.

Protection 

Full trad rack to #3 Camalot. A single 60m rope should be fine. Modern bolted belays/rap stations


Photos of Crack of the World Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: ... and topping out!
... and topping out!
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam into the arching crack, Crack of the World, 3...
Adam into the arching crack, Crack of the World, 3...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1
Pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom cleaning, p3, Crack of the World
Tom cleaning, p3, Crack of the World
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom seconding, 3rd pitch, Crack of the World
Tom seconding, 3rd pitch, Crack of the World
Rock Climbing Photo: Top out, 3rd pitch
Top out, 3rd pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3 is amazing
Pitch 3 is amazing
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam working the fat hand jams, pitch 3, Crack of ...
Adam working the fat hand jams, pitch 3, Crack of ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam and Tom starting up the 3rd pitch, Crack of t...
Adam and Tom starting up the 3rd pitch, Crack of t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Bowker approaching the 2nd pitch belay, Crack ...
Tom Bowker approaching the 2nd pitch belay, Crack ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Bowker strolling the easy portion of the 2nd p...
Tom Bowker strolling the easy portion of the 2nd p...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pat working his way up to the arch - third pitch o...
Pat working his way up to the arch - third pitch o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Crack of the World 11c - Pat and Madeline McElaney...
Crack of the World 11c - Pat and Madeline McElaney...

Comments on Crack of the World Add Comment
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By Tom Bowker
From: somewhere in the USA
May 7, 2013

What a great route!!!!!!!!!!!

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