Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Precipice aka The South Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Albatross T 
Balance Queen T 
Band of Gypsys T 
Bartleby -(Central Slab) T 
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START)  T 
Boys From Bangor T 
Byzantine T 
Chicken of the Sea T 
Chitlin's Corner T 
Connecticut Cracks T 
Country Corner - (mid-cliff START) T 
Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) T 
Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) T 
Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START)  T 
Fear of Flying T 
Fingers in a Seascape (mid-cliff START) S 
From Russia With Love -(Central Slab) T 
Gale Face T 
Games Without Frontiers - (mid-cliff START) S,TR 
Green Mt. Breakdown T 
Grendal T 
Gunklandia T 
Gunklandia Direct Variation T 
High Wire T 
Jaws T 
Juvenile T,S 
London Bridges T 
Lower Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 
Main Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 
Maniacal Depression T 
Michael's Pin - (mid-cliff START) T 
Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Central Slab) T 
Old Town T 
Philidelphia Story, The T 
Pipe Dreams T 
Precipice Ledges T 
Quiver T 
Ramp Traverse, The T 
Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 
Retlaw T 
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 
Rusticator T 
Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START) S 
Sea Gypsy T 
Space Between T 
Staircase, The T 
Standard Route T 
Star Face Mole T 
Story of O T 
Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 
Swept Away T 
Trotsky T 
Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 
Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 
Wet Lithuanian, The T 
Wilner's Route TR 

Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,315
Submitted By: Barrett Stetson on Jul 18, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Beginning of the route.

Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Starts as a hand/fist sized crack that can be jammed and gets progressively larger as it goes up (i.e. you can practically get inside the thing). After getting to a nice ledge walk up left to bolted anchor, but you may want to add a directional for your second first. If you like offwidths you might enjoy this, otherwise you might hate it.

Location 

This climb is on the Central Slabs; after passing the end of the Lower Wall, go up the talus and Staircase and continue right.

In Precipice Right (i.e. up the Granite Stairs). To the right of a large roof (see Bartelby), locate a fist sized crack.

Protection 

Probably want some large gear, the guidebook says #3, I used up to a #4. 2 bolt anchor at top shared with Bartelby and Sweet Surrender.


Comments on Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Avi Katz
Jun 19, 2013

I placed 2 C4 #3's, 1 #1, 1 #2, a small nut, and walked a #4 a few feet. Not bad if you have some offwidth technique. Harder if you don't use the crack. Could use some serious gardening at the base.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
May 27, 2015

I used a 4 and a 5, glad I had them. Very fun climb.
By Kurt G.
From: Reading, PA
Jun 27, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

felt a little sandbagged like some other climbs at south wall. BETA: no cams work at the top of the crack, its gets too wide. keep your eyes open for other placement, its there. fun climb even if it was a bit scary for me being new to trad leading.