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32 - Elephant Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack of Despair T 
Crack of Doom T 
Crack of Redemption T 
Crashline T 
Elephant Talk S 
Elephantiasis T 
Fatal Mistake T 
Fun Terminal S 
Hairline T 
Hocus Pocus S 
Hotline T 
Hundredth Monkey, The S 
Left Guru Crack T 
Lost Error T 
Moongerms T 
Pink Dream T 
Pink Elephant T 
Plumb Line T 
Real Error T 
Reality Check T 
Right Guru Crack T 
Sky T 
Straight Error T 
Trundling Juan T 
Wicked Gravity S 
Worst Error, Left T 
Worst Error, Right T 

Crack of Redemption 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chuck Pratt and Chris Fredericks (July '65)
Page Views: 231
Submitted By: Bryan G on Mar 30, 2013

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Crack of Redemption lies on the far left side of Elephant Rock and is essentially the cleft which parts the main formation from the secondary clifflets to the east. By far the easiest approach is by fixing ropes on the Northeast Face and rappelling in. This leads directly to the base of the climb and it is not necessary to carry approach shoes on the climb. See the NE Face Fixed Line Rappel for more detailed approach beta.

The route is sort of dirty with moss and lichen, but the rock is good and there is not really any bushwhacking. Do not attempt this climb if it has rained recently. Wet moss will make this climb extremely terrifying and difficult.

Pitch 1 climbs an offwidth/squeeze with a couple chockstones which must be passed. The right-hand wall is exceptionally thick with moss. At the top of the pitch is a chockstone roof which is avoided by face climbing around it on the left wall and them mantling onto the ledge. Belay in the alcove with a large bay tree.

Pitch 2 starts in the back of the alcove. Strange chimney moves lead out of the cave to an enjoyable jamcrack up the corner. The start of this pitch was the only part of the climb that was wet when we did it, which made things more difficult in that section. Belay at the top of the jamcrack at another nice ledge in a gully. A short pitch.

Pitch 3 climbs straight up the gully to an intimidating offwidth roof. Luckily there is a tunnel-through in the back which bypasses the roof. Once inside you can either squeeze back out to the edge of the chimney or traverse deeper into before making a tight exit out the top.

Protection 

Pro to 4"


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