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Crack Of Infinity T 
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Crack Of Infinity 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jeff Thomas Chet Sutterlin 1977
Page Views: 1,892
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on May 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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pitch 1 Crack of Infinity

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An excellent yet neglected multi pitch crack route in the main area.

Pitch 1: 10.b
Start in the same corner system as Calamity Jam but climb out the right side of the bulge via a thin crack. The crack widens to hands above but stays on you for a ways. Move right to a bolted belay.

Pitch 2: 5.9
Some people break this into two pitches with a gear anchor if topping out.
From the bolted belay move up the corner above for about 12 feet before moving left into a different crack which splits the face to the left. Diagonal up and left in a nice crack for quite a ways (5.8)before it eases off and either belay or head up into the short but steep corner system (5.9) and belay at a bolted anchor (awkward belay).

Rap the route or Calamity Jam with a 60m or escape by traversing right and rap Cinnamon Slab.

Location 

Right of Calamity Jam, Left of Friday's Jinx

Protection 

Gear to 3" with extra 1-3"


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By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Mar 14, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

CONDITION REPORT 
there is a swallows nest right in the corner of the roof and I think you need gear right there, stay off this or avoid the nest by placing gear below and above this spring.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 22, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Only had time for the first pitch, but it was awesome. I found it considerably harder than its neighbor, Pack Animal Direct. It stays in-your-face well after pulling the roof, but the gear is all there.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Mar 14, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The 10b roof protects well and if juggy, however reachy, with the crux just after the roof. Bring 2-3 each of #2, and #3 Camalots for the 2nd pitch. The top out was cool with overhanging crack, was not too hard if stemming, we did as a short 3rd pitch because it also takes big cams.
Also have done this with the 10a variation and it is harder then it looks, very strenuous placing gear at fingers layback crux.

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