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Crack of Despondency 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Dick DuMais, Steve Scofield and Keith LaBudde (1972)
Page Views: 586
Submitted By: Rob Griffiths on Oct 15, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Possibly one of the worst climbs I have ever done, but it was in a strange way really fun. This has it all, suspect rock, grit, lichen, and did I say grit? The first half of this kinda sucks but the top out would be a worthwhile way of finishing Trigger Point as a multipitch. There is a pretty good view from the top and a solid pine tree anchor.

P1: Climb the main crack(s) to a ledge, 90'.
P2: Diagonal up right to another ledge, 70'.
P3: Up a short face to the top.

You can rap this route with a single 60m rope.

Location 

It's way the heck down the carriage road. Find Trigger Point and go about 30 feet right.

Protection 

Well you can put gear in but a lot of the rock is discontinuous flaky stuff. there is a "solid" piton on route about 2/3 up. I say this jokingly and you should see for yourself.


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By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 19, 2013

Dirty dirty dirty. Pine needles, leaves, lichen, little trees, dirt piles...that's what you can expect on this climb. Although in places, it was fun. It sort of reminded me of a super easy Doublecrack or P1 or Erect Direction.

Did I say dirty? Worth doing if you want to have some adventure through debris. As of October 2013 there was a single tree with rings/slings in good condition.

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