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Crack of Dawn 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: First Recorded Ascent (FRA): Mike Freeborne
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 62
Submitted By: Jeremy Wicker on Sep 28, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: The tasty overhanging hand crack below the dihedra...

Description 

Start below the beautiful overhanging hand crack in a left-leaning finger crack. Traverse up and right through easy climbing until you are at the triangle pod. Put gear in here because the next moves are tough. Getting established in the hand crack is the crux. Powerful and fun moves through the overhanging hand crack up to the second pod. The route is basically over once you're through the overhanging section. Follow the hand crack up to a ledge. Follow the dihedral which is cruiser 5.8 climbing. Finish with a gear anchor at the top of the dihedral or head right to the two bolt anchor for Cuerno Verde.

Location 

The obvious and beautiful overhanging hand crack to the left of Cuerno Verde. Right of the left facing corner and the unknown sport route.

Protection 

The lower pod takes either a .75 or .5 depending on where you place it. The hand crack loves yellow #2s. The dihedral takes small gear to #1. The anchor could use some wide gear if you're crazy enough to haul it up, otherwise you can fit a #2, #3, #1 or a .75 deep in the top of the crack.


Photos of Crack of Dawn Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Teddy entering the second pod about to get to the ...
Teddy entering the second pod about to get to the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Teddy showing us how it's done on the overhanging ...
Teddy showing us how it's done on the overhanging ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chap Grubb sending the crux on his redpoint run.
Chap Grubb sending the crux on his redpoint run.
Rock Climbing Photo: Landscape view of Crack of Dawn and surrounding ro...
BETA PHOTO: Landscape view of Crack of Dawn and surrounding ro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking at the overhanging hand crack straight on.
BETA PHOTO: Looking at the overhanging hand crack straight on.

Comments on Crack of Dawn Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeremy Wicker
From: Carson, New Mexico
Sep 28, 2017

This route is so beautiful and so tempting to climb, I doubt that we were the first ones to climb it. Please let me know if someone else has previously climbed this route and deserves the FA. Thanks!
By tim naylor
Sep 30, 2017

yes it has been climbed before. 2001 ish mike freeborne. maybe before us too?

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