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Crack of Dawn 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 2014 Jay Harrison & Tom Lane
New Route: Yes
Season: Apr - Oct
Page Views: 322
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on May 16, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Keith leading Pitch 3, Crack of Dawn

Description 

Excellent position on the upper pitches. Starting pitch runs up a nasty vertical crack; 5.7. Second pitch climbs a vertical crack in a low-angle face. The mantle getting started is a bit awkward. At the end of the crack, step left, make a tricky move to an overhang, grab its left edge and pull up onto the final slab. Third pitch is short, looks unlikely, but goes at 5.7. The second pitch tops out at the base of a left-rising ramp; scramble up/around a short wall to gain a higher left-rising ramp, then walk left to its end, just left of a thin vertical crack leading to an A-frame overhang (the route Ape-X ). Climb up a right-leaning vertical crack using face holds to the left, to a horizontal crack rising leftward. Reach above the crack to good holds, then foot-traverse left along the lower crack until reaching a thin right-leaning diagonal crack. Take it, moving right around an overhanging flake, to a stance under a ceiling. Last pitch ( same as for Ape-X )heads right through the only easy break in the roof guarding the top-out; it can, with careful rope management, be combined with the previous pitch.

Location 

Very close to the bitter end of the Jammer Ledge, at a right-rising flake which leads to a vertical crack coarsely-lined with nasty, sharp crystals. Fortunately, many of the moves on this can utilize alternative holds on the face. If you're adamant about jamming the crack, tape up thickly.

Protection 

Standard Adk. trad rack, including micro-cams. Make sure to bring a small/medium chocks.


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By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Aug 30, 2015

I'm preferring going around right on P1 (5.4), then traversing back left on the ledge to avoid that 6 foot section of painful crystal jamming. The rest of the climb is fun adventure climbing. It may *seem* dirty, but every hold needed is clean.

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