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Wayback Layback Area (FTGU Right)
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Crack Of Dawn 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Darren Jensen 1993 (possibly TR only?)
Season: spring-fall
Page Views: 631
Submitted By: Dru on Oct 16, 2010

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Shaun on lead, just past the lower crux section

Description 

Climb the long, sustained, right leaning finger crack. A mix of jamming and face climbing with a few tiny face holds for rests. Near the top it is possible to stem right to the next crack (Sliver) At top, move left under block to the belay of Wayback Layback.

A massive sandbag at 10d in the original Bluffs guide.

Location 

Just right of Wayback Layback, the central crack line up this section of cliff.

Protection 

Lots of finger size gear - small to med. nuts and #0 TCU to #4 metolius sized pieces.


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By Marc-Andre
From: Squamish, B.C
Dec 18, 2010

Ya, not sure if it was led bitd.... but it has been red pointed now for sure. Ya, 10d is a lil sandbag, this thing is harder than 'Crime of the Century' for sure.
By Mike Teschke
From: North Vancouver
Jun 9, 2011

Fun finger crack, a couple letter grades harder than its neighbor Wayback Layback.
By slim
Administrator
Feb 6, 2017

dru mentions an original bluffs guide. was/is there a guide to this general area, and/or other areas in this region?
By Dru
Feb 20, 2017

The original guide to Harrison Bluffs was written by Alex Howden and came out in the late 1990s. It has been re-photocopied many times and contains a number of horrendous sandbags (like Tubby and His Pal at 10a+). Also it doesn't distinguish between redpoints, TR-only ascents and other details. Several routes were given free grades and FA credits when they had only in fact been done with hangs on TR. Not to cast blame - most of the initial Bluffs climbers learned to climb at the Bluffs and at the time Alex's guide came out, had only a vague idea of how climbers elsewhere did things, and an apprehension of being accused of overgrading too.

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